Western Australia is much less visited than its popular counterparts on the east coast as it's really far away from the rest of the country and for those short on time, it can be quite a mission to get out here. However, I can really recommend exploring this state as it's got some of the most beautiful beaches in the country, gorgeous roadtrip routes and amazing views.
Fly into Perth, the most isolated city in the world - the next closest major city is Adelaide, more than 2,000km away! - and, after spending some time exploring the city, grab yourself a rental campervan or car and hit the road.
→ Check out my complete guide to visiting Perth!
There are two main roadtrip options to do from Perth through Western Australia: heading north up to Exmouth or even further to Karijini National Park or heading south to Esperance via Margaret River. I've done both and am here to give you all the best tips of what to do along the way.
→ Check out my complete guide to roadtripping up the west coast from Perth to Exmouth!
We're currently living full-time in our campervan, a 2018 Mercedes Sprinter, and exploring Australia, with a plan of "driving the lap" (completing the entire perimeter of the country). I first visited Australia in 2019, following the classic backpacker route, mostly visiting big cities, staying in hostels and traveling by public transport. This time, with the freedom of our campervan, we're trying to hit the lesser known spots and go slower.
The route between Perth to Esperance is filled with beaches, wineries, viewpoints, snorkeling spots, surfing spots, wildlife, amazing restaurants, gorgeous scenic drives and so much more. We've driven along this area quite a few times in different directions during our time in Australia between October 2025 and April 2026, stopping along the way each time at different places to eat, camp, shop, walk and explore.
This is a complete guide in geographical order from Perth to Esperance and back again in an anti-clockwise loop, with links to lots of relevant blog posts to peruse along the way.
Every single spot (and more) that I mention in all my blog posts about Australia can be found in my Australia | Ultimate Map!
This is a digital map featuring hundreds of my favourite restaurants, campgrounds, accommodations, shops, photo spots, museums, beaches, lakes, animal spots, bridges, viewpoints, hikes and SO much more in Australia, including its three external territories.
Each pin includes exact locations, images, detailed information, the ability to open and save the spot in your Google Maps and a link to my relevant blog post to read more.
COMING SOON → Buy the Australia | Ultimate Map!
Below is some useful information for preparing for your roadtrip from Perth to Esperance. In all cases, please be sure to check with the relevant local authorities for the latest and accurate information.
Language: The official language of Australia is English.
Currency: The currency used in Australia is the Australian dollar, denoted as AUD $. I use a Wise account when I travel which allows me to have a single, free account with multiple currencies. I only have to pay once to convert my money in the app and then I can pay in AUD $!
→ Check the latest currency conversion between AUD $ and your local currency.
Data: Before you arrive, I recommend purchasing an eSim on your phone so that you can access data the moment you land. eSims are much more convenient as it means you don't have to put a separate physical Sim into your phone. AirAlo offers great deals for eSims of various data sizes and time lengths with Optus.
→ Load an international eSim on your phone with AirAlo.
If you are visiting Australia long term, you might wish to put a physical Sim in your phone as AirAlo is geared more towards short term visitors on holiday. This way you can access a local phone plan. There are three main mobile phone network providers in Australia: Telstra, Optus and Vodafone. Telstra has the best coverage across the country whereas Optus and Vodafone are good within cities. I recommend Telstra as it means you have the best coverage while you travel around the country, especially in rural areas.
We travel with a Starlink in our campervan which enables us to have unlimited WiFi wherever we are, even in places without coverage.
Visa: All passport holders except New Zealand require a visa to visit Australia. All arrivals must fill out an Australian arrival card before landing.
→ Check which visa you need for Australia.
Time of year to visit: Australia can be visited all year-round. A roadtrip from Perth to Esperance has a strong focus on beaches and being outdoors so I recommend visiting in late spring, summer or early autumn (October-April).
Length of stay: A roadtrip from Perth to Esperance and back again in an anti-clockwise loop is about 1,800-2000km, depending on how many stops you choose to make along the way. Across multiple visits, we've spent about three weeks exploring thoroughly. I'd recommend at least two weeks to do it properly.
Normally, in my other blog posts, I write different sections: where to stay, where to eat and what to do. As I'm covering more than 1,800km in this blog post, I've decided to arrange the entire guide in geographical order from Perth to Esperance and back again in an anti-clockwise loop so you can read step-by-step about where to go, what to do, where to eat and suggestions for camp spots along the way.
The best way to experience this roadtrip is obviously with your own wheels. The most popular way of exploring Australia is by camping - whether with a motorhome, campervan, caravan or a roof tent on top of a car. This gives you the ultimate freedom of going as fast or as slow as you like.
→ Rent a campervan in Perth with Apollo, Camplify, Indie or Juicy.
If you have a car without camping options, there are accommodation options in the towns and cities along the way.
We are driving "the lap" around Australia, exploring the country in our campervan, so all my accommodation suggestions will be campsites. The best way to find camping spots is to use an app. We use Wikicamps Australia, a cheap app that has every single amenity listed (both free and paid) that you might need on the road. This includes things like where to fill up fresh water, where to dump grey water, where to empty toilets, where to stay, gas stations, information points and also has suggestions for things to do as you go.
→ Download the Wikicamps Australia app.
Perth
Perth is the most isolated city in the world, situated all the way on the far western coast of Australia. The next closest major city is Adelaide, more than 2,000km away. It's the fourth-largest city in Australia (after Melbourne, Sydney and Brisbane) and the capital of Western Australia.
As there is so much to see, eat, do and explore in Perth, I've written a comprehensive guide to the city for all your planning and inspiration needs.
Penguin Island
From Perth, Penguin Island is about 45 minutes south. It's technically within the Greater Perth area (and included in my Perth guide) but worth a mention as you head out on your roadtrip.
Do: Penguin Island is the largest and only island you can visit in Shoalwater Islands Marine Park. Up to 30 types of birds have been spotted on the island including the massive pelican and, if you're lucky, the adorable little penguin, the smallest variety of the penguin family. There's a 2km boardwalk loop that will take you all around the beautiful bird sanctuary.
Mandurah
From Penguin Island, Mandurah is just half an hour south. Mandurah is the second-largest city in Western Australia only after Perth.
Do: Explore Ocean Marina, the delightful waterfront neighbourhood of the city. Spot the resident dolphins in Chardonnay Bay. See thrombolites in Lake Clifton, the world's oldest life forms dating back approximately 570 million years.
Eat: Stop in at Alfresco, some of the best Indian food in Australia, serving up mouthwatering curries, perfectly cooked rice, yummy naan and creamy mango lassis.
Stay: We free-camped at Pinjarra, just 20 minutes outside of the city.
Dolphins in Chardonnay Bay
Alfresco
Lake Clifton
Bunbury
From Mandurah, Bunbury is about an hour and 15 minutes south. Bunbury is the third-largest city in Western Australia after Perth and Mandurah.
Do: Walk along the Mangrove Boardwalk, the southernmost mangrove in the entire state and a rare specimen. Swim with bottlenose dolphins.
Eat: With a gorgeous location right on the beach overlooking the ocean and with a prime sunset view, you should definitely stop for dinner at Backbeach. My partner loved the calamari and I had a yummy vegetarian burger.
Stay: There is a great free camping spot in Capel, about half an hour south.
Mangrove Boardwalk
Backbeach
Busselton
From Bunbury, Busselton is about 40 minutes southwest. It's at the start of the Margaret River region.
Do: Walk the Busselton Jetty, the longest jetty in the southern hemisphere and the second-longest in the entire world only after Southend Pier in England, stretching 1,841 metres out into the ocean.
Eat: Grab açaí bowls at Freshalicious; the location is a bit random inside a strip mall but trust me they were so tasty.
Stay: There is a great free camping spot in Capel, about 15 minutes north.
Busselton Jetty
Freshalicious
Dunsborough
From Busselton, Dunsborough is about 20 minutes west. It's part of the Margaret River region.
Do: Go shopping in town, a very boutique-y, upmarket area with loads of gorgeous shops to wander through.
Eat: We had a delicious pizza at Bungalow Neighbourhood Social, a super vibey hangout spot with a bar. We also enjoyed our brunch at Evviva Cafe, especially the açaí bowls. Grab mouthwateringly good ice cream at Elski, a Danish ice creamery that makes all their own ice cream and sorbet in-house. Have the best coffee at Merchant & Maker, a gourmet deli and grocery store.
Wander + Laze
Bungalow Neighbourhood Social
Cape Naturaliste
From Dunsborough, Cape Naturaliste is less than ten minutes northwest. It's part of the Margaret River region.
Do: Stop at the exquisite beaches all along the cape including Castle Bay, Meelup Beach, Point Picquet, Eagle Bay and Shelley Cove. Take in the views from Sugarloaf Rock Lookout. Go surfing at Yallingup or Smiths Beach. Find the natural rock pools at Injidup Natural Spa.
Eat: Have lunch at Wise Eagle Bay overlooking the vineyards and off towards the ocean. Another day, have mouthwatering, locally-sourced Australian food at Meelup Farmhouse with its large, airy interior.
Meelup Beach
Wise Eagle Bay
Sugarloaf Rock Lookout
Meelup Farmhouse
Margaret River
From Cape Naturaliste, Margaret River (the town) is 45 minutes south. It's part of the Margaret River region.
Do: Browse the Margaret River Book Exchange. Find the mouth of the Margaret River. Go surfing (or watch!) at Surfers Point. Hang out and have lunch at Gnarabup Beach. Drive through the Boranup Forest.
Eat: Being the main town of the region means that they had the most choices for restaurants. We enjoyed brunch at Aldo's Cafe and Korean BBQ at Teddis Big Spoon followed by dessert at Mai Tardi, the best gelateria in Margaret River. The Spot Italiano took the cake for us, so much so we had dinner there three times! The White Elephant Cafe has the absolute best view situated straight on Gnarabup Beach overlooking the ocean and the beach.
Stay: The closest we stayed to Margaret River was at the delightful Olive Hill Farm surrounded by olive trees and sheep. It is for self-contained vehicles only as there are no facilities.
Mouth of the Margaret River
Margaret River Book Exchange
Gnarabup Beach
Boranup Forest
Aldo's Cafe
The Spot Italiano
Mai Tardi
Olive Hill Farm
Augusta
From Margaret River (the town), Augusta is half an hour south. It's the southernmost part of the Margaret River region.
Do: Hang out on Hamelin Bay Beach. Walk up to the Hamelin Bay Observation Deck. Visit Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse.
Stay: One of the closest free camping spots is at the Brockman Stewart Rest Area. It's set just back from the highway and surprisingly quiet, nestled between the trees. In Blackwood River National Park, we camped at Sues Bridge camp, a delightful forest escape next to the Blackwood River where you can swim or go boating in the river and hang out at peaceful, spacious campsites.
Hamelin Bay Beach
Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse
Hamelin Bay Observation Deck
Brockman Stewart Rest Area
Sues Bridge
Pemberton
From Augusta, Pemberton is about an hour and a half east.
Do: See the Gloucester Tree, Pemberton's most famous tree, a majestic 61-metre tall karri. It was once used as a fire lookout, tall trees which were climbed in order to be able to spot wildfires from far away. It was one of 18 across the region, used before planes became commonplace. After, go for a swim in Pemberton Pool, a manmade freshwater swimming pool tucked into the trees of Pemberton Forest Park. The water is so still that the reflections of the trees are just perfect for photography.
Stay: There is no freedom camping in Pemberton, although there are a number of paid options. We were traveling from Margaret River so stayed at the Willow Springs free campground nearby in the Donnelly Forest before driving into Pemberton for the day.
Gloucester Tree
Pemberton Pool
Willow Springs Campground
Walpole-Nornalup National Park
From Pemberton, Walpole-Nornalup National Park is about an hour and a half southeast. Walpole-Nornalup National Park is the only place in Australia where massive Giant Tingle Trees, or Eucalyptus jacksonii, can be found.
Do: Take in the view from Hilltop Lookout. Walk to see the Giant Tingle Tree, the oldest eucalyptus tree in the world. Enjoy the beach at Conspicuous Cliff. Walk the Valley of the Giants Tree Top Walk. Walk through tingle trees at Ancient Empire.
→ Check out my complete guide to visiting Walpole-Nornalup National Park!
Giant Tingle Tree
Conspicuous Cliffs
Valley of the Giants
Denmark
From Walpole-Nornalup National Park, Denmark is an hour east.
Do: Catch a sunset at Hay River Bridge. Feed rescued animals at Denmark Animal Farm. Spot the waterfall at Waterfall Beach. Hang out in the rock pools at Madfish Bay. Swim at Greens Pool, one of Australia's most beautiful beaches. Spot the rocks that look like elephants at Elephant Rocks.
Eat: Have brunch at Mrs Jones, a super aesthetic, airy, old butter factory serving up amazing, creative breakfast and lunch dishes. For dinner, go to Hiroko Cafe, a family-run Japanese spot with delicious sushi, soup, dumpling and noodle dishes. It's popular so it can get busy and the space is quite cute and small, but it's so worth the wait!
Stay: There is a free campground along the peaceful Hay River and a paid campground right on the coast at rainy, cozy Shelley Beach in West Cape Howe National Park.
Greens Pool
Elephant Rocks
Mrs Jones
Hiroko Cafe
Hay River Free Camp
Shelley Beach
Albany
From Denmark, Albany is about 40 minutes east.
Do: Visit the gorgeous Betty's Beach. Take in the views over Salmon Holes. Visit Misery Beach in Torndirrup National Park. Explore Whaling Cove and the Historic Whaling Station.
Eat: Royal Turban is located in the Amity Motel so a bit unassuming but trust me, this was one of our favourite Indian meals in Australia! The service was fast and great, the food was mouthwateringly good (get the paneer curry and some mango lassis) and the interior tastefully decorated with bright colours.
Stay: We stayed at a free campground at Betty's Beach which was just fantastic. It's right on the beach overlooking the ocean. There are technically only six spots, but it was crammed full with campers when we visited!
Betty's Beach
Royal Turban
Salmon Holes
Esperance
From Albany, Esperance is about five hours east. It's the furthest stop on the roadtrip before we loop back towards Perth.
Do: Visit the stunning Wharton Beach, our favourite in the area. Explore Cape Le Grand National Park. Complete the Great Ocean Drive, stopping at beaches and viewpoints along the way. Watch sunset at Eleven Mile Lagoon. Spot Pink Lake which is no longer pink.
Eat: Stop in at Bread Local, a sweet outdoor bakery and cafe just outside town serving up freshly baked bread, sandwiches, salads, pastries and fantastic coffee (including gluten-free options!). There is also a small nursery with plants for sale on site and plenty of outdoor seating to enjoy your meal.
Stay: We didn't stay in Esperance, but did stop over in Ravensthorpe at their RV Rest Area on the way to break up the drive.
Wharton Beach
Hellfire Bay
Salmon Beach
Eleven Mile Lagoon
Bread Local
Ravensthorpe RV Rest Area
Lake Camm
From Esperance, Lake Camm is about three hours northwest. It's on the way back towards Perth.
Do: Spot the Stuck Truck, a literal stuck truck that has since been painted with funky colours.
Stay: We stayed at a free camping spot on the shores of Lake Camm, a salt lake under a stunning night sky full of stars.
The Stuck Truck
Wave Rock
From Lake Camm, Wave Rock is about an hour northwest. It's the last stop on the way back towards Perth! From Wave Rock, it's about four hours west back to Perth.
Do: Visit Wave Rock, a rock in Hyden that looks exactly like a wave frozen in time standing at 110 metres long and 15 metres tall. It's estimated to be about 2.7 billion years old!
BOOK AN EXPERIENCE IN WESTERN AUSTRALIA!
PIN THIS POST TO REFER BACK TO LATER!
GET READY TO TRAVEL!
— Book tours and experiences - with GetYourGuide
— Get all the gear you need for your trip - with Amazon (North America)
— Get all the gear you need for your trip - with Amazon (Europe)
— Find a place to stay - with Booking.com
— Choose a hostel to stay at - with Hostelworld
— Purchase global travel insurance - with World Nomads
— Load an international eSim on your phone - with AirAlo
— Start your own travel blog - with Hostinger
— Join the GetYourGuide Travel Creator Community - with GetYourGuide
Discover more from Jana Meerman
Subscribe to get the latest posts sent to your email.
Hi! I’m Jana, a Dutch-German-British-Canadian with a dream of seeing every country in the world. I am a storyteller, photographer and adventurer passionate about documenting and sharing my travels.
