A Guide to Puerto Viejo, Costa Rica

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We left behind Panama and continued on with our Central America backpacking trip, crossing the northern border into Costa Rica.

I quit my job last July and decided to take what I coined an "adult gap year", given I was taking it aged 28, instead of the typical gap year age of 18. I went back and forth for months on exactly when I would go, which countries I would visit, for how long I wanted to travel, with whom I wanted to go - if anyone...

My Central America trip would turn out to cover five countries in five weeks; the first three (PanamaCosta RicaNicaragua) with my partner Tobi and the last two (GuatemalaBelize) with Ina, one of my friends from Salzburg.

Costa Rica was decidedly my least favourite country of the trip unfortunately - and quite possibly one of my least favourite I've ever visited. I shared about this on Instagram while we were traveling, with the key reasons being that it was absurdedly expensive, miserably over-touristed (trashy beaches, everything's become a tourism grab) and poor infrastructure with nowhere materializing into a place we were happy to spend time. We ended up leaving Costa Rica after just three nights instead of the original eight we had planned.

One of the highlights we did enjoy while in Costa Rica was our morning visit to the Jaguar Rescue Center in Puerto Viejo de Talamanca, near the border to Panama.

Although it was a lot of work, I made daily vlogs on Instagram reels of every single day of my Central America trip which I branded "the backpacking series".

→ Check out my episode of the Backpacking Series of visiting Puerto Viejo!

How to Get to Puerto Viejo

By shuttle: We arrived in Puerto Viejo from Bocas del Toro across the border in Panama. We took a shuttle from the ferry terminal in Almirante which dropped us off at the border, which we then crossed on foot. A different shuttle then picked us up just on the other side and drove us to Puerto Viejo, dropping us off at our various accommodations around town.

Having said that, we didn't love our shuttle experience and if we could do it again, we'd opt for the bus - we only had good experiences on public buses across Panama.

→ Check out my episode of the Backpacking Series of taking the ferry and shuttle between Panama and Costa Rica!

By car: If you decide to travel through Costa Rica or Central America by car, you can also reach Puerto Viejo and parking seems readily available. However, I don't have any experience with driving in Panama or Costa Rica so please do your own research here.

By bus: We left Puerto Viejo headed for the Costa Rican capital of San José on the public bus. Direct buses run on a set schedule between Puerto Viejo and San José, however they are first-come, first-served and we unfortunately did not get a seat on a direct bus. Instead, we had to transfer in Limón which did add considerable time to our journey but was straightforward nonetheless.

→ Check out my episode of the Backpacking Series of taking the bus from Puerto Viejo to San José!

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Border control to leave Panama

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Leaving Panama

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Entering Costa Rica

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Costa Rica passport stamp!

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Stopover in Limón on the way from Puerto Viejo to San José

How to Get Around Puerto Viejo

The main downtown area of Puerto Viejo is definitely walkable.

We stayed outside that area near Playa Cocles. You can't really walk here as there are no sidewalks on the very busy roads. Therefore, the most popular ways of getting around are by bike or grabbing an Uber. Also, we found Costa Rica eyewateringly expensive, so be prepared!

jana meerman puerto viejo de talamanca costa rica map

Puerto Viejo de Talamanca and its nearby neighbourhoods

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Streets of Puerto Viejo

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Where to Eat in Puerto Viejo

We visited just one restaurant, Sol de Caribe near Playa Cocles, for dinner and breakfast and found the food to be really good. I can especially recommend the chunky monkey smoothies! We paid about USD $80 for a basic dinner for two, which is reflective of steep prices across Costa Rica.

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Things to Do in Puerto Viejo

As you can probably tell, we didn't love Puerto Viejo. We arrived from Panama and wanted a place to stay near the border before venturing further north.

I wrote about our feelings on Costa Rica over on Instagram: Costa Rica just really didn’t live up to the hype for us - instead of gorgeous, lush beachfronts and jungles teeming with wildlife and opportunity and a country embracing the pura vida lifestyle, we found over-tourism, smelly and trash-filled beaches and jungles, poor infrastructure and exorbitant prices. Admittedly Costa Rica disappointed me and, as a travel blogger, I strive to always be honest in my travels so as not to point my audience in directions I would not personally recommend.

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Playa Cocles

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Having said that, one of our highlights of Costa Rica was our morning visit to the Jaguar Rescue Center. This amazing organization takes in about 1000 injured, abandoned and rescued animals every year with a goal of returning as many to the wild as possible. Some simply cannot be rewilded and they live comfortable, safe lives at the rescue centre for us to learn about the work they’re doing.

The Jaguar Rescue Center is best reached by Uber. At the time of writing, tickets were USD $28 per person and could be bought in advance on their website or on-site upon arrival. The center can only be visited with a guided tour in English, Spanish, French or German at 9:30am or 11:30am.

→ Check out my episode of the Backpacking Series of visiting the Jaguar Rescue Center!

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Sloths

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A wild toucan

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Crocodile

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Iguana

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Red macaw

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Green macaw

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Monkeys

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jana meerman jaguar rescue center puerto viejo costa rica-19

Agouti

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Margay


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Jana Meerman

Hi! I’m Jana, a Dutch-German-British-Canadian with a dream of seeing every country in the world. I am a storyteller, photographer and adventurer passionate about documenting and sharing my travels.

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