A Guide to La Fortuna, Costa Rica

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Costa Rica was the second country of our Central America backpacking trip, having started in the easternmost country of Panama. We crossed the border near Bocas del Toro and started our Costa Rican leg with a night on the beach in Puerto Viejo.

I quit my job last July and decided to take what I coined an "adult gap year", given I was taking it aged 28, instead of the typical gap year age of 18. I went back and forth for months on exactly when I would go, which countries I would visit, for how long I wanted to travel, with whom I wanted to go - if anyone...

My Central America trip would turn out to cover five countries in five weeks; the first three (PanamaCosta RicaNicaragua) with my partner Tobi and the last two (GuatemalaBelize) with Ina, a friend from Salzburg.

Costa Rica was decidedly my least favourite country of the trip unfortunately - and quite possibly one of my least favourite I've ever visited. I shared about this on Instagram while we were traveling, with the key reasons being that it was absurdedly expensive, miserably over-touristed (trashy beaches, everything's become a tourism grab) and poor infrastructure with nowhere materializing into a place we were happy to spend time. We ended up leaving Costa Rica after just three nights instead of the original eight we had planned.

We spent our first night in Puerto Viejo, traveled north through the country to stop over for a night in the capital of San José and finished with a night in La Fortuna in the north of the country near the famous hot springs and volcanoes.

Although it was a lot of work, I made daily vlogs on Instagram reels of every single day of my Central America trip which I branded "the backpacking series".

→ Check out my episode of the Backpacking Series of visiting La Fortuna!

Here is my short guide to La Fortuna if you do find yourself here looking for some insights:

How to Get to La Fortuna

By shuttle: The most straightforward and popular way of reaching La Fortuna is by booking a private shuttle from San José, either through your accommodation or a tour operator. It is much more expensive than the bus but it does mean straightforward, door-to-door service.

By bus: We arrived in La Fortuna by public bus from the Costa Rican capital of San José. There is one direct bus each day at 8:50am and seats are first-come, first-served; you cannot buy tickets in advance. An Uber dropped us off at the 7-10 Bus Terminal (which is different than the bus terminal we arrived at from Puerto Viejo). All buses arrive and depart La Fortuna at the main bus terminal in town.

→ Check out my episode of the Backpacking Series of taking the bus from San José to La Fortuna!

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Bus Terminal 7-10 in San José

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Bus Terminal 7-10 in San José

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Road between San José and La Fortuna

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First sighting of the volcanoes of La Fortuna

We also left La Fortuna by public bus headed for Nicaragua. You can take a bus or Uber from La Fortuna to the bus station in nearby El Tanque, about a ten-minute journey. We couldn't find a bus schedule from La Fortuna to El Tanque, so we took an Uber. There are two direct buses each day from El Tanque to Peñas Blancas at the border with Nicaragua; at approximately 7am and 3pm according to a nearby convenient store.

We missed the morning direct bus and, instead of sitting in El Tanque for six hours, ended up on a multi-leg bus journey via Upala and La Cruz.

→ Check out my episode of the Backpacking Series of taking the bus from La Fortuna to Peñas Blancas!

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La Fortuna bus station

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El Tanque bus station

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Scenes from the bus ride from El Tanque to Peñas Blancas

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The bus between Upala and La Cruz

By car: If you decide to travel through Costa Rica or Central America by car, you can also reach La Fortuna and parking seems readily available. However, I don't have any experience with driving in Costa Rica and, in general, we found infrastructure, including roads, to be quite poor; please do your own research here.

By flight: There is a small, domestic airport in La Fortuna with a few daily flights between the town and the Costa Rican capital of San José.

How to Get Around La Fortuna

La Fortuna is considered the main area to stay in to explore the volcanoes, rainforests and hot springs of northern Costa Rica. Having said that, all the key attractions are quite far apart.

You can certainly walk around within La Fortuna between your accommodation and places to eat. However, to get pretty much anywhere else, you'll either need to join a guided tour or, if you're doing it yourself, Uber is the best and most readily available way to get around. For example, we took an Uber from our accommodation in La Fortuna to the free Tabacon Hot Springs, about a 15-20-minute drive away, depending on traffic.

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Map of La Fortuna area, showing drive between La Fortuna and Tabacon Hot Springs

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La Fortuna

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Volcan Arenal as seen from the drive out of La Fortuna

Where to Eat in La Fortuna

We visited just one restaurant for lunch, The Open Kitchen, while in La Fortuna. The food was a good Mediterranean twist on Costa Rican dishes but, as with everywhere in the country, expect steep prices; we paid USD $50 for our lunch for two.

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Things to Do in La Fortuna

As you can probably tell, we didn't love La Fortuna.

I wrote about our feelings on Costa Rica over on Instagram: Costa Rica just really didn’t live up to the hype for us - instead of gorgeous, lush beachfronts and jungles teeming with wildlife and opportunity and a country embracing the pura vida lifestyle, we found over-tourism, smelly and trash-filled beaches and jungles, poor infrastructure and exorbitant prices. Admittedly Costa Rica disappointed me and, as a travel blogger, I strive to always be honest in my travels so as not to point my audience in directions I would not personally recommend.

The most famous activities in La Fortuna revolve around hot springs, volcanoes and rainforests. If you're interested, I recommend checking out GetYourGuide for tons of different tours available.

One of our highlights of Costa Rica was our afternoon spent in the free hot springs in Tabacon. Reachable in about 20 minutes by Uber from La Fortuna, these free hot springs are along the same source as the hot spring hotels of the area. You can walk just off the edge of the road down to a naturally hot flowing river and hang out with a bunch of other people enjoying the warm waters for a few hours. Just remember to keep an eye on your stuff while you're in the water!

→ Check out my reel from the free Tabacon Hot Springs!

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jana meerman la fortuna costa rica-27
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jana meerman la fortuna costa rica-27
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jana meerman la fortuna costa rica-27
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jana meerman la fortuna costa rica-27

BOOK AN EXPERIENCE IN LA FORTUNA!

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Jana Meerman

Hi! I’m Jana, a Dutch-German-British-Canadian with a dream of seeing every country in the world. I am a storyteller, photographer and adventurer passionate about documenting and sharing my travels.

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