Western Australia is the country's largest state and has so much variety to offer. I first visited in 2019, spending a week in Perth and then joining a group roadtrip up the west coast all the way to Exmouth.
→ Check out my guide to roadtripping up Western Australia from Perth to Exmouth!
This time, I'm in Australia with my partner and we've bought ourselves a campervan with an intent to drive "the lap", the entire perimeter of the country, visiting some of the spots not on most backpacker routes. While many travelers come to Australia to see the east coast between Melbourne and Cairns, I can really recommend making the trip out west.
We had just left Perth behind after going to the James Blunt concert and headed south to explore the famous Margaret River region for the first time.
It's important to make a distinction here: there is a town of Margaret River, located in the heart of the Margaret River region. The name can be used interchangeably for both! In this blog post, when I talk about "going to Margaret River," I am discussing visiting the entire region (including the town).
The Margaret River region stretches from Busselton on the north coast down to Augusta on the south coast across a coastal peninsula with gorgeous nature; think beaches, tall trees and amazing drives.
Map of the Margaret River region via Wikipedia
By flight: The closest major airport is in Perth, a two-hour drive north. Most visitors to Margaret River will arrive in Perth if coming by air.
→ Check out my complete guide to visiting Perth!
There is also a smaller regional airport at Busselton Margaret River offering public transport routes to Sydney and Melbourne and a host of private charter routes. This airport is located just outside Busselton at the start of the region.
By car: If you're driving around the country as we are in our campervan, then the easiest way to get to Margaret River is with your own wheels.
→ If you don't have your own car, you can rent one in Perth or Busselton.
You might want to start in Perth as your base for renting a campervan to explore Australia.
→ Rent a campervan in Perth with Apollo, Camplify, Indie or Juicy.
By bus: You can take a bus from Perth down to Busselton with South West Coachlines who run a daily service every morning. Transwa runs a coach service from Perth all the way down the Margaret River region with various stops, ending in Augusta.
By guided tour: If you don't have your own wheels or simply want to make a day trip from Perth, you can join a guided tour of Margaret River which is an excellent way to get a great insight of the area with a guide and on a short timeframe.
Our campervan in Blackwood River National Park
Margaret River stretches from Busselton in the north about 100km across the peninsula to Augusta in the south with loads of beaches, forests and towns to explore along the way.
Of course, the easiest way to explore is with your own wheels. We are traveling around the entire country in our campervan for a year and it gives so much freedom to get around.
→ If you don't have your own car, you can rent one in Perth or Busselton.
If you don't have a vehicle, you have a few other options, although they are infrequent. The best recommendation would be to base yourself in Margaret River, the main town of the region, and do day trips from there. You could take a Transwa coach which connects the main towns of the region.
Alternatively, Get Your Guide offers heaps of different guided tours all across the region with loads of different activities which you can take part in.
We are driving "the lap" around Australia, exploring the country in our campervan.
The best way to find camping spots is to use an app. We use Wikicamps Australia, a cheap app that has every single amenity listed (both free and paid) that you might need on the road. This includes things like places to camp (paid and freedom camping), where to fill up fresh water, where to dump grey water, where to empty toilets, where to stay, gas stations, information points and also has suggestions for things to do as you go.
→ Download the Wikicamps Australia app.
We used Wikicamps to find a free camping spot in Capel, just outside the region closer to Bunbury. There is no freedom camping inside the actual Margaret River region so we booked a few nights at the Olive Hill Farm surrounded by olive trees and sheep. We also spent a night in the Blackwood River National Park at Sues Bridge camp, a delightful forest escape next to a river.
What a public dumping spot looks like
Free camping in Capel
Olive Hill Farm
Waking up at Olive Hill Farm
Sue's Bridge in Blackwood River National Park
There are a number of towns you could base yourself in when visiting Margaret River region. The town of Margaret River is the main hub which would give you the best base to explore. Aside from that, popular spots are Busselton, Dunsborough, Yallingup and Augusta.
If you're looking for a place to stay in Margaret River, you'll find something to suit your budget and accommodation type from cute backpacker spots to high-end resorts and everything in between.
→ Check out places to stay to suit your budget and accommodation type.
We had some really yummy meals throughout our time in the Margaret River region. I've put them in geographical order from north to south:
Busselton
One morning, we had the juiciest açaí bowls at Freshalicious. The location is a bit random inside a strip mall but trust me they were so tasty.
Dunsborough
We had a delicious pizza at Bungalow Neighbourhood Social, a super vibey hangout spot. We also enjoyed our brunch at Evviva Cafe, especially the açaí!
Naturaliste
Having lunch at Wise Eagle Bay overlooking the vineyards and off towards the ocean was probably our absolute favourite meal we had in the entire region. You can go for a set menu or pick off the à la carte and everything is just delicious.
Margaret River
Being the main town of the region means that they had the most choices for restaurants. We enjoyed brunch at Aldo's Cafe while our campervan's front windshield was being replaced. Mai Tardi is the best gelateria in town.
For dinner, the Korean BBQ at Teddis Big Spoon is amazing. However, it was The Spot Italiano that took the cake for us, so much so we had dinner there twice!
Gnarabup
The White Elephant Cafe has the absolute best view situated straight on Gnarabup Beach overlooking the ocean and the beach. Their fish tacos and the tofu bowl are both fantastic.
Although you can visit the highlights of Margaret River in a day - such as with a guided tour - it's such a naturally gorgeous region that I really recommend staying at least a few days (if not a week!) to enjoy it properly.
Here is everything we did in the region in order geographically from north to south:
Walk the Busselton Jetty
The Busselton Jetty is the longest jetty in the southern hemisphere and the second-longest in the entire world only after Southend Pier in England! It stretches 1,841 metres out into the ocean. You can go for a long walk along it plus loads of activities you can participate in.
Enjoy the beaches of Cape Naturaliste
This beautiful cape lies between Dunsborough and Yallingup and has so many exquisite beaches to see all along its edge. We spent a day just driving and stopping along the way enjoying the clear blue waters. You'd need a whole week just to spend a day at each enjoying them all!
Here are all the ones we visited:
- Castle Bay
- Meelup Beach
- Point Picquet
- Eagle Bay
- Shelley Cove
Castle Bay
Meelup Beach
Point Picquet
Eagle Bay Beach
Love a pretty beach staircase!
Shelley Cove
Take in the view from Sugarloaf Rock Lookout
This impressive granite rock lies just off the mainland surrounded by the swirls of the Indian Ocean. You cannot reach the rock, separated by a strong channel of water, but it is a popular spot for seabirds to nest which you'll often see flying about the rock.
Go surfing at Yallingup or Smiths Beach
These are two of the most popular surf spots along the Margaret River region and you'll catch big waves full of avid surfers.
Yallingup Beach
Smiths Beach
Find the natural rock pools at Injidup Natural Spa
While we didn't, swimming is popular in the natural rock pools nestled in and amongst the rocks of Injidup Natural Spa. You'll need to walk down from the parking lot and do a bit of rock climbing to find the pools.
We spotted the natural pool in our drone
Spot kangaroos
You can't control wildlife but Margaret River is a popular spot to see kangaroos in the wild. The best time to see them is at sunrise or sunset as they are nocturnal animals. We saw a field absolutely full of them near Yallingup!
Get a massage in Margaret River
Okay, this isn't unique to Margaret River, but I can really recommend Good Chinese Massage in Margaret River town, especially their back and shoulder massage for people like us living in campervans on thin foam mattresses! We didn't need an appointment and simply walked in, but you can book online.
Hang out and have lunch at Gnarabup Beach
I mentioned the White Elephant Cafe here up in the food guide but I can also recommend Gnarabup Beach itself, too, even if you don't want to have lunch here. The beach is nestled in a protected bay and the water is simply gorgeous. Watch out for seagulls!
Drive through the Boranup Forest
This road through Boranup Forest under the gigantic Karri trees was just breathtaking, especially at golden hour. There is a specific photo spot where you can stop and go for a short walk into the trees which I really recommend; you just feel so small here!
Hang out on Hamelin Bay Beach
This huge beach is one of the most popular in the Margaret River region with a big expanse of pure white sand. If you're lucky, you might spot friendly stingrays and eagle rays in the water!
Walk up to the Hamelin Bay Observation Deck
At the end of Hamelin Bay Beach, you can do a short walk up to a boardwalk viewpoint with panoramic views across Hamelin Bay, Foul Bay and out to Hamelin Island.
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Hi! I’m Jana, a Dutch-German-British-Canadian with a dream of seeing every country in the world. I am a storyteller, photographer and adventurer passionate about documenting and sharing my travels.
