A Complete Guide to Dubrovnik

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From Mostar, I caught a bus across the border from Bosnia and Herzegovina into Croatia, my 65th country. I've been wanting to visit this European gem for so long and as it borders Austria, where I currently live, there is really no excuse as to why I haven't been here sooner! I only had time to visit Dubrovnik in the far south of the country and I am already so looking forward to coming back and seeing much more of the rest of Croatia.

I met a fellow traveler, Evie, at the bus station in Mostar as we both tried to figure out which bus would get us to Dubrovnik and thank goodness we did because we then got to spend the next two days together exploring Dubrovnik before her flight back home to Wales.

I spent four nights total in Dubrovnik and, as usual, I tried to squeeze in as much as possible and fully discover all that the city had to offer. And while it was certainly busy with summer tourists, I ended up really loving Dubrovnik. So without further ado, my complete guide to Dubrovnik:

How to Get to Dubrovnik

Dubrovnik is a beautiful old city in the far south of Croatia, tucked between the borders of Bosnia and Herzegovina to the north and Montenegro to the south. Dubrovnik sits on the Croatian coast, on the exquisite Adriatic Sea.

By flight: The Dubrovnik Airport is a simple bus ride away from the Old Town. Avoid the expensive airport shuttle (€10 at the time of writing) and pay less than half the price (€4.50 at the time of writing) by taking the regular bus: buses 11, 27 and 38 run between Dubrovnik's cable car and the airport.

By bus: I arrived in Dubrovnik by bus using GetByBus from Mostar, across the border in Bosnia and Herzegovina. Many bus and coach lines service Dubrovnik from other parts of Croatia and its neighbouring countries. The Dubrovnik Bus Station is about ten minutes out of the city. Bus 8 runs directly from the Bus Station to the cable car from where it's just a ten-minute walk into the Old Town.

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Croatian coast by bus

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First sighting of Dubrovnik from the bus ride

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Flying out of Dubrovnik

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How to Get Around Dubrovnik

To get around the Old Town, you have to walk everywhere. This walled city is full of cobblestones and have worn down a bit with so many tourists and some of the stones can be slippery so do be wary where you step!

If you want to head a little further out of town, the main bus station is at the cable car from where you can take buses into the city or along the coast.

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Where to Stay in Dubrovnik

This particular trip was one I was backpacking on, so I stayed in hostels for my entire route through HungarySerbiaBosnia and Herzegovina and into Croatia.

Of course, Croatia is a very popular European summer destination, so you're going to find that everything is expensive, including hostels. Elsewhere on my trip I'd been paying between €16 - €40 a night, but Dubrovnik set back me €79 a night at the popular Hostel Angelina. Truthfully, it was a bit of an odd experience. Outside their main building, there are six other buildings a few minutes walk away. I stayed in one of these which was essentially just a room with bunk beds and a bathroom. There was no common space to hang out, no easy access to a kitchen (only in the main building, a few minutes walk through town) and definitely felt a little isolating. However, the room was super clean, the bed comfortable and it was in a great location right in the heart of the Old Town.

I can only recommend you do your own research to suit your budget and taste on Hostel World or Booking.com.

Where to Eat in Dubrovnik

I was on a budget backpacking trip for this trip and, as I mentioned above, Dubrovnik is really expensive.

As a result, I chose to eat my meals from either the local bakery, Mlinar, where you can get delicious pastries (my favourite is burek) for a few euros, or from the Konzum grocery store, an affordable and well-stocked chain where you can pick up all the ingredients for delicious picnics to eat at the seaside.

Tip: you can refill your water bottle for free at any of the water fountains throughout the Old Town with ice cold refreshingly clear water!

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Picnic at the West Harbour

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Picnic at City Beach

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Refilling at one of the many water fountains in the Old Town

Best Things to Do in Dubrovnik

I spent four nights total in Dubrovnik and, as usual, I tried to squeeze in as much as possible and fully discover all that the city had to offer. And while it was certainly busy with summer tourists, I ended up really loving Dubrovnik. Here is everything I did in the city:


Hike up Mount Srđ

Upon arrival in Dubrovnik, to get our legs moving again after a long bus ride from Mostar and to catch golden hour over the Old Town, Evie and I tackled the beautiful hike up to Mount Srđ. It is usually accessed by cable car from the Old Town, but that can be quite expensive and honestly, the hike is a relatively easy one with beautiful switchbacks all the way up. And it's free!

Check out my complete guide to hiking Mount Srđ!

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Wander through the streets of the Old Town

The Dubrovnik Old Town, a UNESCO World Heritage site, juts off the Croatian coast into the Adriatic Sea and is considered one of the world's best preserved medieval cities. Built starting in the 11th century, the Old Town Walls encircle the city which can be walked for €35 (which I chose not to do). I wandered through nearly every street of the gorgeous Old Town with Evie spotting beautiful churches, palaces, fountains and buildings and tiptoeing our way along the cobblestoned streets and twirling through idyllic little side streets.

I recommend the steps of the Church of St. Ignatius, the Cathedral of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary, wandering down the main street, Stradun, and my favourite, a visit to Cat Alley.

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From the steps of St. Ignatius

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Pigeons in Gundulic Square

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Evie in Cat Alley

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Stradun at night


Take in the views outside the walls at Porat Dubrovnik

Dubrovnik's bustling port, with ferry boats coming and going and spots to jump in the sea and waterfront restaurants, this place feels alive.

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Porporela

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Climb up to Fort Lovrijenac

We didn't pay to go inside this fort, built in the 16th century - €15 at the time of writing - but the view from the front gate overlooking the entire Old Town of Dubrovnik alone is seriously worth the climb.

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Have a picnic at West Harbour

This peaceful little spot is just beyond Pile Gate, where all the kayaking tours start so you'll probably spot plenty of kayakers heading out into the sea as you have your picnic and go for a dip in the sea.

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jana meerman west harbour dubrovnik croatia-08

Spend an afternoon sunbathing and cliff jumping at City Beach

We stumbled across this one totally on accident and seriously loved it. It's such a lovely spot for a swim, sunbathing and there are also cool places for cliff jumping from various heights as well. I'd argue this was way nicer than the much more popular Buža Beach which is more of a bar with some cliff jumping spots. We spent an entire afternoon reading, snoozing and swimming at City Beach.

Check out my guide to all the best swim spots in Dubrovnik!

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jana meerman dubrovnik croatia-081

Watch the sunset at Danče Beach

A short walk west from the Old Town, this gorgeous beach is actually the best spot for seeing the sunset in Dubrovnik, as well. The other beaches are angled a bit too far away from where the sun sets, but from Danče Beach not only do you have a massive bay to swim in but also the perfect angle for golden hour.

Check out my guide to all the best swim spots in Dubrovnik!

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jana meerman dubrovnik croatia-012

Spend the day at the gorgeous Banje Beach

The closest proper "beach" to Dubrovnik is the popular Banje Beach. Featuring both sand and stones, this gorgeous beach has some seriously surreal Croatian water to swim in and cool off after dozing in the sun. There are also sun loungers available for rent, and beach bars serving up refreshments. The beach does get quite busy given its vicinity to the Old Town, so I recommend coming early for a good spot.

Check out my guide to all the best swim spots in Dubrovnik!

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jana meerman dubrovnik croatia banje beach (3)

Walk out to Plaža Sveti Jakov

This beach is so much nicer and quieter than Banje Beach, because it is about a half-hour walk outside the Old Town. It is absolutely worth the pretty walk along the coastline - you get gorgeous views looking back towards Dubrovnik - and the beach is seriously stunning, at the bottom of a set of stone steps.

Check out my guide to all the best swim spots in Dubrovnik!

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jana meerman plaza sveti jakov saint jacob beach dubrovnik croatia-22
jana meerman plaza sveti jakov saint jacob beach dubrovnik croatia-22

Explore the abandoned Hotel Belvedere

This abandoned hotel lies empty at the end of Plaža Sveti Jakov. Simply keep walking along the stone pathway at the end of the beach and you can explore this sprawling abandonded building. And best of all is the countless spots perfect for sunbathing at the water's edge and the many places for cliff-jumping. You'll share the location with a few others who know about the gem but it's so much quieter than the beach just a few minutes away and I seriously loved hanging out here on my last day in Dubrovnik.
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jana meerman plaza sveti jakov saint jacob beach dubrovnik croatia-01

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Jana Meerman

Hi! I’m Jana, a Dutch-German-British-Canadian with a dream of seeing every country in the world. I am a storyteller, photographer and adventurer passionate about documenting and sharing my travels.

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