The final stop of my four-country Balkan trip was Croatia. From Mostar, I caught a bus across the border from Bosnia and Herzegovina into Croatia, my 65th country. I've been wanting to visit this European gem for so long and as it borders Austria, where I currently live, there is really no excuse as to why I haven't been here sooner! I only had time to visit Dubrovnik, in the far south of the country, and I am already so looking forward to coming back and seeing much more of the rest of Croatia.
I met a fellow traveler, Evie, at the bus station in Mostar as we both tried to figure out which bus would get us to Dubrovnik and thank goodness we did because we then got to spend the next two days together exploring Dubrovnik before her flight back home to Wales.
I spent four nights total in Dubrovnik and, as usual, I tried to squeeze in as much as possible and fully discover all that the city had to offer. And while it was certainly busy with summer tourists, I really loved Dubrovnik. So without further ado, my complete guide to Dubrovnik:
How to Get to Dubrovnik
Dubrovnik is a beautiful old city in the far south of Croatia, tucked between the borders of Bosnia and Herzegovina to the north and Montenegro to the south. Dubrovnik sits on the Croatian coast, on the exquisite Adriatic Sea.
By Bus
I arrived in Dubrovnik by bus from Mostar, across the border in Bosnia and Herzegovina. Many bus and coach lines service Dubrovnik from other parts of Croatia and its neighbouring countries. I booked my bus on GetByBus. The Dubrovnik Bus Station is about ten minutes out of the city by local bus. Bus 8 runs directly from the Bus Station to the cable car, from where it's just a ten-minute walk into the Old Town. You can buy your ticket in person at the Bus Station.
First sighting of Dubrovnik from the bus ride
By Plane
I flew out of Dubrovnik, which is a common way to travel to and from the city. The airport is a simple bus ride away - but avoid the expensive airport shuttle (€10) and pay less than half the price (€4.50 at the time of writing), by taking the regular bus! Bus lines 11, 27 and 38 run between Dubrovnik at the cable car bus station and the airport.
I flew direct to Vienna with Austrian Airlines, and there was both a delay in departure and an issue with my luggage not arriving on the other end... but otherwise, it was a straightforward experience.
How to Get Around Dubrovnik
To get around the Old Town, you walk everywhere. This walled city is full of cobblestones so do be wary where you step! If you want to head a little further out of town, the main bus station is at the cable car and you can take buses into the city or along the coast, or even to the airport.
Where to Stay in Dubrovnik
This trip was a backpacking one, so I stayed in hostels for my entire route through Hungary, Serbia, Bosnia and Herzegovina and into Croatia. Of course, as this is a very popular European summer destination, you're going to find that everything is expensive, including hostels. Whereas I'd been paying €16 - €40 a night for the rest of my trip, Dubrovnik set back me €79 a night!! I stayed at the popular Hostel Angelina. It was a bit of an odd experience because they have six buildings outside the main one, so I stayed in what felt like a room with bunk beds and a bathroom a few minutes walk away from the main building which meant there was no common space to hang out, no easy access to a kitchen (only in the main building) and definitely felt a little isolating. But the room was super clean, the bed really comfortable and it was seriously the best possible location right in the heart of the Old Town.
I can only recommend you do your research on Hostel World - and always book direct with your chosen hostel for the best price and best flexibility!
Eating on a Budget in Dubrovnik
I was on a budget backpacking trip for this trip and, as I mentioned above, Dubrovnik is really expensive. We're talking €20 for a basic main course, before drinks, appetizers or desserts. So I ate every single meal from either the local bakery, Mlinar, where you can get delicious pastries (my favourite is burek) for a few euros, and the rest from the Konzum grocery store, an affordable and well-stocked chain where you can pick up all the ingredients for delicious picnics to eat at the seaside.
Tip: you can refill your water bottle for free at any of the water fountains throughout the Old Town with ice cold refreshingly clear water!
Picnic at the West Harbour
Picnic at City Beach
Refilling at a water fountain
Best Things to See and Do in Dubrovnik
Hike up Mount Srđ
Upon arrival in Dubrovnik, to get our legs moving again after a long bus ride from Mostar and to catch golden hour over the Old Town, Evie and I tackled the beautiful hike up Mount Srđ. It is usually accessed by cable car from the Old Town, but that can be quite expensive and honestly, the hike is an easy one with meandering switchbacks up the mountain. And free!
Wander through the streets of the Old Town
The Dubrovnik Old Town, a UNESCO World Heritage site, juts off the Croatian coast into the Adriatic Sea and is considered one of the world's best preserved medieval cities. Built starting in the 11th century, the Old Town Walls encircle the city which can be walked for €35 (which I chose not to do). I wandered through nearly every street of the gorgeous Old Town with Evie spotting beautiful churches, palaces, fountains and buildings and tiptoeing our way along the cobblestoned streets and twirling through idyllic little side streets.
I recommend the steps of the Church of St. Ignatius, The Cathedral of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary, wandering down the main street, Stradun, and my favourite, a visit to Cat Alley.
From the steps of St. Ignatius
Pigeons in Gundulic Square
Cat Alley
Stradun by night
Take in the views outside the walls at Porat Dubrovnik
Dubrovnik's bustling port, with ferry boats coming and going and spots to jump in the sea and waterfront restaurants, this place feels alive.
Porporela
Climb up to Fort Lovrijenac
We didn't pay to go inside this fort, built in the 16th century, as it was €15 at the time of writing, but the view from the front gate overlooking the entire Old Town of Dubrovnik is seriously worth the climb.
Have a picnic at West Harbour
This peaceful little spot is just beyond Pile Gate, where all the kayaking tours start so you'll probably spot plenty of kayakers heading out into the sea as you have your picnic and go for a dip in the sea.
Spend an afternoon sunbathing and cliff jumping at City Beach
We stumbled across this one totally on accident and seriously loved it. It's such a lovely spot for a swim, sunbathing and there are also cool places for cliff jumping from various heights as well. I'd argue this was way nicer than the much more popular Buža Beach which is more of a bar with some cliff jumping spots. We spent an entire afternoon reading, snoozing and swimming at City Beach.
Watch the sunset at Danče Beach
A short walk west from the Old Town, this gorgeous beach is actually the best spot for seeing the sunset in Dubrovnik, as well. The other beaches are angled a bit too far away from where the sun sets, but from Danče Beach not only do you have a massive bay to swim in but also the perfect angle for golden hour.
Spend the day at the gorgeous Banje Beach
The closest proper "beach" to Dubrovnik is the popular Banje Beach. Featuring both sand and stones, this gorgeous beach has some seriously surreal Croatian water to swim in and cool off after dozing in the sun. There are also sun loungers available for rent, and beach bars serving up refreshments. The beach does get quite busy given its vicinity to the Old Town, so I recommend coming early for a good spot.
Walk out to Plaža Sveti Jakov
This beach is so much nicer and quieter than Banje Beach, because it is about a half-hour walk outside the Old Town. It is absolutely worth the pretty walk along the coastline - you get gorgeous views looking back towards Dubrovnik - and the beach is seriously stunning, at the bottom of a set of stone steps.
Explore the abandoned Hotel Belvedere
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Hi! I’m Jana, a Dutch-German-British-Canadian with a dream of seeing every country in the world. I am a storyteller, photographer and adventurer passionate about documenting and sharing my travels.
