Oh Portofino, the place where that song famously croons you can find love. Once a little fishing village tucked down the far end of the Ligurian coast, Portofino is now considered one of the most bougie places to vacation in all of Italy. Think decadent and indulgent, think high end designer stores, think best pasta of your life, think luxury - welcome to Portofino.
The colourful pastel houses of this waterfront village are so idyllic, it's hard to wrap your head around it. Perfectly situated viewpoints dotted around the harbour provide excellent spots to capture this postcard town. The Hotel Splendido, a Belmond hotel, where rooms start at €1600 and reach above €6000 per night in high season, rises above it all, nestled in the hills above Baia Cannone.
Hotel Splendido
I spent three nights in Portofino and honestly, adored it. It can be a bit overwhelming, but the understated luxury is one to lean in to. Sure, you'll spend three times the price on lunch as you might elsewhere down the road, but for a few days, it's a perfect bubble of enjoyment. And it's simply beautiful.
Here is my complete guide to Portofino - and also somewhat on a budget 🙂 Enjoy!
How to Get to Portofino
Portofino is a little fishing village, nestled far out on the Ligurian coast. There is no train station in Portofino. Instead, you'll need to take the train to Santa Margherita, nearby, and then take the little shuttle bus along the gorgeous coastline to Portofino. The bus ticket can be purchased at the tabacchari next to the train station in Santa Margherita, and then validated when you board the bus. At the time of writing, the bus ran every 15 minutes and cost €5 each way for the approximately 15-minute bus ride.
Alternatively, you can drive. There is one central parking garage in town which is just a few minutes walk to the harbour. You pay per hour.
Stopover in Santa Margherita
Where to Stay in Portofino
I won't lie, accommodation is pricey in Portofino. I spent far too many hours digging through listings on Booking.com, AirBnb and Google Maps trying to find a nice place within my backpacker's budget.
Eventually, I settled on what I actually arguably think might be the best place to stay in Portofino. Sure, you can splash out with the other Portofino-goers at the Belmond, and maybe one day I will, but for this trip, I think I absolutely nailed it.
You must stay at the Agriturismo Terre Rosse. I cannot say enough about this place. It might be one of the most special places I've ever stayed. We booked in for three nights. There are currently two rooms for two people each, but they're in the process of building a new building with another two rooms for the 2025 season. Carlotta, the vibrant Italian woman who runs the place, clearly adores her job. Open since 2013, they've really refined the guest experience over the last decade. The rooms are comfortable and clean, it's so quiet up at the farm, there is a kitchen with farm fresh breakfast every morning and really every last detail has been considered.
Because it's up in the hills above Portofino, Carlotta comes to collect you in her little red Fiat Panda, often with darling Yuri, her perfect little doggo, alongside. You walk down from the farm through the walking trails for about 20 minutes to reach Portofino, but she's always around to pick you up and drive you home after your day in town.
Breakfast at the farmhouse
Sunset at the farmhouse in the hills above Portofino
What to Eat in Portofino
I think I might have had some of the best pasta in my life in Portofino. One of the lunch spots we visited, we ended up sitting near a former famous Dutch footballer who apparently won many awards for Milan and Chelsea FC, so we think we did a great job choosing the best food in town.
There are a lot of touristy spots and there are a lot of fine dining spots, so striking the right balance can be a challenge. Here is everything I ate during my four days in Portofino to get you started:
Gelateria Bar San Giorgio
Calata 32
Gelateria Gepi
Pescefino
da I Gemelli
Ristorante Lo Stella
Kicks (Santa Margherita)
Best Things to Do in Portofino
People-watch at the colourful harbour
Portofino is a small town, so honestly, just wandering the streets and people watching in the harbour is absolutely an essential to get you started. Slow down, grab a coffee or a gelato, sit on a bench and just stay a while, enjoying the idyllic views of the boats floating gently on the waves, the backdrop of the Castello in the distance and the chatter of holiday-goers all around.
Walk up to Castello Brown
Opened in 1425, the imposing Castello Brown sits high above the Portofino Harbour and can be seen from nearly everywhere in town. The €5 entry fee can be paid at the harbour - no need to buy it in advance - from where you then need to walk up the hill into the castle gardens and grounds. This specific site, with its ideal location jutting out into the ocean, has military defense history dating back to Roman times.
Swim at Baia Cannone
Only the most iconic spot in all of Portofino - and perhaps the entire Italian coast. Baia Cannone sits just around the corner from the main harbour of Portofino, accessible on foot and then down the free stairs here. The beach is completely free to access, the water is so deliciously warm and it's really just the perfect place to laze away the day.
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Hi! I’m Jana, a Dutch-German-British-Canadian with a dream of seeing every country in the world. I am a storyteller, photographer and adventurer passionate about documenting and sharing my travels.
