At midnight on Friday night we were eating pizza at Soul Kitchen, the best spot in Munich, after we had been out to watch Le Parc by the Bayerisches Staatsballett and decided to spontaneously book a weekend away in neighbouring Czechia.
We ended up booking a beautiful boutique hotel in Český Krumlov, a cute town in southern Czechia, for a night. And so, the next morning, we quickly packed and headed out for a gorgeous drive east into Czechia, along roads full of autumnal colours and sunshine.
Our weekend in Český Krumlov saw us exploring the idyllic old town, eating yummy vegetarian traditional Czech food, catching up on sleep in our quiet hotel, visiting the castle and climbing up the castle tower and simply enjoying the weekend away. My two weeks in Munich were meant to be about "doing nothing" and "chilling out" but... I can't seem to sit still for long.
With approximately 13,000 residents, Český Krumlov is small and sweet, the perfect spot to visit for a weekend; I don't think you need more time than that.
By flight: The closest airports to Český Krumlov are in Linz (Austria) or Prague.
By car from Munich: We drove to Český Krumlov from Munich, across the border in Germany. This drive took us about four hours and was seriously gorgeous at this time of year along roads full of autumnal colours and sunshine. The border crossing was unmanned when we visited so we did not stop.
→ Check out my guide to 24 hours in Munich!
By car from Prague: Český Krumlov is a popular destination within Czechia to visit from Prague, the country's vibrant capital city. From Prague, it is just over two hours of driving straight south.
→ Check out my detailed guide to visiting Prague!
You cannot drive into the old town of Český Krumlov and instead must park just outside at one of the numbered parking lots. We parked at P5 although P1 would have been a bit closer, however, it was closed for the day due to an event. You pay per day and, if you're staying at a hotel in the town, can get a slightly discounted rate.
By bus: A direct bus runs from Prague to Český Krumlov in just under three hours with RegioJet. FlixBus also services Český Krumlov with direct connections from Munich, Germany and Linz and Salzburg, Austria, among others.
By day tour: While researching Český Krumlov, I also found many day tours available from Prague, including transport. This could be a great option if you're already in Prague and have a spare day to visit the magical town of Český Krumlov and would like to go the guided route!
As no cars are allowed inside the old town of Český Krumlov, the best (and only!) way to get around is on foot. Walking is the perfect way to explore the town and you can explore the adorable little streets at your own leisure.
You might also want to join a walking tour of Český Krumlov to get a really good insight from a local of the history and learn a bit more about the town.
We had just one night in Český Krumlov which I truly believe is enough time to explore the little southern Bohemian town. After a quick research conducted over our pizza in Munich the night before, we booked one of the last rooms at Monastery Garden, the loveliest little boutique hotel.
It's a few minutes walk into the old town, but situated just north of the moat and in a quiet spot in the alleyway leading to the Monastery of the Minorities. This also makes it situated just across the road from the famous castle!
The rooms were tastefully decorated and the beds super comfy. However, the breakfast served on site was a bit of a disappointment - and not included, so we had to pay for it anyway. In hindsight, I'd definitely stay here again but not dine here.
We enjoyed some seriously delicious traditional Czechian / Bohemian food while we were in Český Krumlov. I can strongly recommend the Tavern of the Two Maries, not only for the food and history but also for the perfect location situated directly on the Vlatava River with an incredible view looking up at the castle.
For my main, I had the mouthwatering "Old Bohemian Vegetarian Feast" which offered a taster of each of the vegetarian meals on the menu. This included kuba or puffed barley with vegetables, steamed buckwheat with vegetables, a baked millet casserole with cheese, cabbage potato cakes and sides of potatoes and salad. YUM.
For dessert, we shared žahour or sweet creamy dumplings in a blueberry sauce and potato dumplings with poppy seeds, alongside a steaming mug of creamy hot chocolate against the chilly autumn air. DOUBLE YUM.
Main dish - the vegetarian feast
Dessert - two kinds of dumplings and a hot chocolate
The restaurant is right on the river
The view from our table!
We spent about 24 hours in Český Krumlov across our two days. A weekend is the perfect amount of time to explore this sweet little Bohemian town.
Take in the view from Vyhlídka
Often considered one of the best secret viewpoints in town, I can highly recommend the view from Vyhlídka. It is a bit of a walk outside the old town, on the eastern side of Český Krumlov.
It's near parking lot 5, so we chanced upon it as we walked from our car into town.
Hang out in Seminární zahrada Park
This sweet escape is a small gated park overlooking the entire town with an incredible view of Český Krumlov nestled against the tower, the castle tower so prominent on the skyline.
See the view from Buraco dos Ratos
This is a little scenic outlook as you cross the bridge on Horní from which you can spot the Hotel Mlýn.
Wander the shops in Náměstí Svornosti
The main square of Český Krumlov, Náměstí Svornosti is lined with little shops and cafes full of locals and tourists savouring a slow afternoon.
Step inside the Church of St. Vitus
This church was built in Gothic style and while I found it quite simple on the inside, it was adorned with some beautiful frescoes. Built in the early 1300s, it's worth poking your head inside.
Cross the Lazebnický most
This bridge connects the old town with the castle and has some beautiful views in both directions across the Vltava River. If you're lucky, you might hear the music of a busker serenading you as you cross the bridge.
Climb the steps of the Castle Tower
I think the Castle Tower was my favourite thing in the whole town as the view from the top of the steps (which are quite tight!) is seriously beautiful. A 360° panoramic view from the top deck gives the perfect sight of Český Krumlov laid out below. There is also a small museum on site.
There are a few different options for tickets which include different areas of the castle, depending on what you want to see. There is no need to purchase tickets in advance, you can simply select and buy when you arrive at any of the ticket offices.
→ Check out the different pricing for different ticket options to visit various parts of the castle.
Walking into the castle grounds
Take in the view from the top of Cloak Bridge
We didn't visit the inside of the castle, but wandered through the cobbled street that runs right underneath it from the Castle Tower and ends at Cloak Bridge. The impressive arched Cloak Bridge has jaw-dropping views of Český Krumlov, especially showing how the little town is surrounded by the Vltava River.
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Hi! I’m Jana, a Dutch-German-British-Canadian with a dream of seeing every country in the world. I am a storyteller, photographer and adventurer passionate about documenting and sharing my travels.
