Hiking is one of my favourite things in the world. The feeling of being out in the mountains, fresh air and nature all around, with the physical accomplishment of reaching a place often only accessible on foot is one of the most satisfying, addicting feelings in the world.
Trying to coordinate eight people for a weekend hiking to a mountain hut was no easy feat. I called the Tappenkarseehütte more than a month before we planned to hike up and managed to book the last room they had available and all eight beds within it.
The first weekend of July rolled around and, as is always the case with living with the unpredictable weather of the mountains, we were greeted with mist and rain rather than the clear skies and sunshine we had been expecting. This weather turned out to be a blessing in disguise, keeping us cool as we trekked the more than 700m of vertical up the mountain!
I grew up in Canada so every year on Canada Day (1 July), I try to take the opportunity to do something in celebration of the country in which I spent much of my youth. I basically grew up in the mountains so it felt right to spend the 2023 edition hiking up into the Austrian mountains, the country I currently call home, with a bunch of wonderful people who I’m lucky to call my friends.
→ Check out all my other Austria hiking guides!
We trekked our way up to the Tappenkarsee, a stunning lake in Kleinarl, where we hung out with cows, ate our weight in Heidelbeerschmarrn (a delicious Austrian treat of shredded pancakes with blueberres), played countless rounds of card games, jumped in the cold lake, had a gigantic sleepover in our shared room on the top floor of the mountain hut and took hundreds of photos of the epic views. It was a very Happy Canada Day weekend indeed and I feel lucky to get to call so many beautiful places on this planet home.
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The Tappenkarsee is located in Kleinarl in the Eastern Alps of Salzburgerland. The hike begins at Parkplatz Jägersee. You can also choose to drive along the gravel road around the Jägersee and park at Parkplatz Tappenkaralmweg which will cut off about 3.5km from your hike each way, but I can really recommend walking this stretch as it's just so beautiful!
By car: The easiest way to reach Jägersee is with your own wheels. Driving takes about an hour and a 15 minutes from Salzburg. There is free parking at the Jägersee or at Parkplatz Tappenkaralmweg.
By public transport: It is possible to reach the Jägersee by public transport; this is how we traveled there! From Salzburg, take the train to St. Johann im Pongau and transfer to bus 530 which will take you straight to the lake.
By guided tour: Wagrain-Kleinarl offers a guided day hike up to the Tappenkarsee on certain days throughout the summer hiking season, meeting at either the Tourist Office in Kleinarl or at the Parkplatz Tappenkaralmweg.

Jägersee, a few steps from where the bus dropped us off




Hiking from Jägersee to Parkplatz Tappenkaralmweg




It is possible to hike up to the Tappenkarsee just as a day hike but I can definitely recommend making this an overnight adventure. Watching the sunset and sunrise over the Tappenkarsee is a goosebump-inducing feeling and it's so peaceful to escape into the mountains for a night to recharge.
Overlooking the Tappenkarsee is the adorable Tappenkarseehütte. It's usually open from 1 June to 30 September every year, but check their website just to be sure. Bookings must be made in advance to secure your spot (especially on weekends) which can be made via email but it's easiest and quickest to give them a call (06418 20113) to arrange your visit.

View of Tappenkarsee from the hut

Walking down to the lake from the hut the next morning
You definitely won't get hungry on this hike!
There are three huts all offering delicious Austrian mountain dishes to fuel your trek. Before or after your hike, you can have a meal at Gasthaus Jägersee right at the parking lot or where you get off the bus.
Right on the shores of the Tappenkarsee, the beautiful Tappenkarseealm (which even takes bank card up in the mountains!) has incredible food in a super cozy environment overlooking the lake. I highly recommend their Heidelbeerschmarrn, a delicious Austrian meal of shredded pancakes with blueberry jam.
Then, you can have dinner and breakfast at the Tappenkarseehütte where you spend the night. It's a full-service hut with a mouthwatering menu but just be prepared because these guys only take cash.

Tappenkarseealm
When: June to September
Where: hike begins at Parkplatz Jägersee or you can also choose to drive along the gravel road around the Jägersee and park at Parkplatz Tappenkaralmweg which will cut off about 3.5km from your hike each way, but I can really recommend walking this stretch as it's just so beautiful!
Difficulty: intermediate
Length: from the Parkplatz Jägersee (so including the extra 7km), we did a return hike of just over 21km which took us just five and half hours of moving time across two days as we spent the night at the Tappenkarseehütte
Directions: from Parkplatz Jägersee, walk to the left around the Jägersee, following the gravel road all the way around the lake until you reach the Parkplatz Tappenkarweg. There, enter the forest and follow the hiking trail through the fence at the end of the parking lot and up the mountain. You'll hike a long set of switchbacks past the beautiful Riesach Wasserfall before making your way towards the foot of the Tappenkarsee. Walk around the Tappenkarsee past the Tappenkarseealm and on to the Tappenkarseehütte for an optional overnight stay (book in advance). Return the way you came.
→ Check out my exact route on Strava!
Bathrooms: yes, flushing toilets in the Gastalm Jägersee at the parking lot as well as in the Tappenkarseehütte, plus an outhouse at the Parkplatz Tappenkaralmweg

Riesach Wasserfall

Arriving to Tappenkarsee









Almost to the hut!

Post-hike lake dip

It's not as cold as you expect!



The next morning, the skies cleared and we got the most incredible lake view











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Hi! I’m Jana, a Dutch-German-British-Canadian with a dream of seeing every country in the world. I am a storyteller, photographer and adventurer passionate about documenting and sharing my travels.
