I am spending six weeks backpacking around Italy this summer. I kicked off this tour with a week in Rome which was absolutely gorgeous but busy and a bit overwhelming. So, escaping inland to the peaceful and pretty Umbria region was the perfect next stop.
I spent five days based in Perugia, the capital of Umbria, the perfect base to visit both the city and explore the other towns nearby.
→ Check out my guide to towns to visit in Umbria!
Perugia is a medieval city, with many elements still preserved in gorgeous condition just waiting to be explored. I loved wandering the little streets, camera in hand, enjoying the gentle charm of the city. As the heart of the Umbrian region, Perugia was once a city of great importance, particularly during the Etruscan era. It feels like the city has hardly changed since.
I traveled to Perugia as the second stop on my six-week backpacking trip through Italy. There are a few ways to get to Perugia.
By flight: You can arrive by plane as there is an airport here in Perugia. The San Francesco d'Assisi International Airport is about 12km away from the centre of Perugia and is the main airport servicing both Perugia and nearby Assisi. It is a smaller airport so might be more expensive. You can also fly into Rome on west coast or Rimini on the east coast; these are the closest "bigger" airports.
By train: I traveled from Rome to Perugia by train, which is by far the most popular and easiest way to visit Perugia. Trains run regularly from Rome Termini to Foligno, where you transfer into Perugia (or any of the other towns in Umbria you wish to visit). From Perugia's Fontivegge Station, the mini metro - which really is mini! - will get you straight into the city for just €1.50. Be prepared to walk up some hills though once you arrive in Perugia...! Book your train tickets for Italy on Trenitalia.
By bus: I left Perugia for Rimini by Flixbus. The bus only goes once per day at 3:30am so I can't recommend it for that reason since there's no public transit in Perugia at that time of night and I had to walk half an hour to the train station, but aside from that it was an easy ride through the night.
By car: Of course, if you have your own wheels, you can also travel to Perugia by car. There are limited parking options in the city as much of it is for walking only.
Spot the green Flixbus!
Perugia is the capital of Umbria, so it is the perfect spot to choose as your base while visiting this region. You'll find accommodations to suit all budgets and needs. I am backpacking through Italy on this trip, so am staying mostly in hostels where available.
I stayed at the lovely Little Italy Hostel. It had some bad reviews on Google so I was a bit hesitant, but was pleasantly surprised when I got here - it was welcoming, friendly and the location absolutely cannot be beat. It's just a few minutes walk from the main plaza in all of Perugia, Piazza IV Novembre, and a few minutes further to pretty much everything to see in Perugia! It could be cleaner, but definitely was fine as far as hostels go!
Reception
Kitchen
As I am backpacking and solo traveling, I am doing a lot of grocery shopping and cooking in my hostels in order to stretch my money further. There is a wonderful little Coop grocery store right in the heart of town that stocks all the yummy Italian goodies you'll need for meals.
But of course, I did go out daily for my regular gelato fix:
Augusta Perusia
Link
Il Gelato di Mastro Cianuri
Perugia is a medieval city, with many elements still preserved in gorgeous condition just waiting to be explored. I loved wandering the little streets, camera in hand, enjoying the gentle charm of the city. As the heart of the Umbrian region, Perugia was once a city of great importance, particularly during the Etruscan era. It feels like the city has hardly changed since.
Here is everything I saw during my five days in the city:
Wander the streets of Perugia
I loved wandering the little streets of Perugia, camera in hand, exploring the history of this gorgeous Umbrian capital. My favourite thing to do on my first day in a new place is just to get to the vibe of the area, turning down random streets and soaking in the atmosphere, hearing the local chatter in the air...
Walk under the Arco dei Gigli
This gate is one of five Estruscan City Walls gates, also known as Porta Sole or the Sun Arch. It's a beautiful little spot to wander under and I learnt after that it's called the Sun Arch because the original Coat of Arms was the sun thanks to the white colour of the flour mill in the Porta Sole district nearby at the Tiber River.
Enjoy the view from Belvedere alla Via delle Rupe
This pretty viewpoint right near the minimetro station is a nice spot just outside the city walls to see Perugia and the rolling landscapes of Umbria in the distance.
Explore the Rocca Paolina
In the 1500s, Perugia refused to pay new salt taxes imposed by the papal state of Pope Paul III, leading to the outbreak of the Salt War in 1540. This resulted in the construction of Rocca Paolina, a fortress and a sort of dark underground city which incorporated many pre-existing elements of Perugia and destroyed the houses of the Baglioni family who had led the uprising which had resulted in the Salt War.
Hang out in the Piazza IV Novembre
This 13th century plaza feels like the heart of Perugia, where people come to mingle, find a seat in the shady steps of the Palace or the Cathedral, have a drink at a cafe on the perimeter, go shopping...
Step inside the Perugia Cathedral
This quiet resting place in the heart of Perugia was built in the 1400s and features some really gorgeous frescoes and stained glass windows.
Go for a walk along the Via dell'Acquedotto
I think this was one of my favourite little spots in all of Perugia. The acqueduct used to bring fresh water uphill to the citizens of Perugia, built in the 1200s. Nowadays it's a cute little walking path through the city where you can photograph all the pretty colourful buildings and take in all the nice views.
Enjoy the views from Via Cesare Battisti
I can highly recommend walking above the Acquedotto medievale di Perugia along the Via Cesare Battisti, especially at golden hour, for one of the best views of Perugia.
Step inside the Chiesa di San Michele Arcangelo
As with everything in Perugia, this church is centuries old, built in the 5th century. It has a beautiful uniquely circular shape, nicknamed "The Little Temple". The lawn out front is a popular spot with locals to sit and enjoy the sun. I particularly enjoyed stepping inside, where I felt such a deafening silence... was really beautiful.
Find the best viewpoint in the city at Porta Sole
The absolute BEST viewpoint in all of Perugia can be found at Porta Sole. This panoramic look over the entire city and across into the Umbrian countryside was seriously gorgeous. A proper postcard view of Italy.
Note: the location of the viewpoint from Porta Sole on Google Maps is incorrect - it's marked as the Belvedere della Piazza Gio. Battista Rossi Scotti.
Wander the Giardini Carducci
At the end of the Via Baglioni, this beautiful square is such a good spot for golden hour overlooking gardens and across to the southern part of Perugia. When I was here, there was a lovely little antique and flea market also going on - it happens the last weekend of every month.
Monthly flea market
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Hi! I’m Jana, a Dutch-German-British-Canadian with a dream of seeing every country in the world. I am a storyteller, photographer and adventurer passionate about documenting and sharing my travels.
