There is magic in Kaikoura. It won't take long for you to feel it seeping out of the small streets and go dancing across the cliffs. Every turn looks like a fairy tale; not in a superficial manner, but in a way that makes you feel content.
Kaikoura is a small seaside town 2 1/2 hours north of Christchurch on the east coast of New Zealand's South Island. Home to just 2,150 people, this is a place where you feel as welcome as you would at home. A shockingly beautiful place, there is plenty for outdoor lovers and ocean wildlife lovers alike.
How to Get to Kaikoura
For those of you arriving in other ways, Kaikoura is a 2 1/2 hour drive north of Christchurch straight along the coast on Highway 1. I am traveling around New Zealand with a Stray bus pass that gives me unlimited hop-on, hop-off access all across the country. I took the Stray bus from Christchurch. The closest international airport is in Christchurch; there is a small local airfield in Kaikoura as well.
Interested in getting around New Zealand on Stray? Click on the image on the right to buy the perfect pass for your trip down under!
Where to Stay in Kaikoura
I cannot say enough about the Albatross Backpackers Inn.
I spent a night here in the middle of February when I first arrived in New Zealand and loved it so much I came in March and moved in for 3 1/2 months to work, even occasionally interim-managing it while the owners went away!
Ben & Katie run the hostel and are clearly are very proud of their space. The hostel is in a perfect location to access town and the beach. It's clean, comfortable, cosy and they offer free coffee/tea/hot chocolate, unlimited wi-fi and you can borrow guide books, towels and bikes at any time. To me, it truly became my home during the time I spent there, enjoying Pancake Sundays, movie nights, the staff room, live music and all the other special nuances that make this place so unique and wonderful. I will forever cherish my time at the Albatross.
Update: heartbreakingly, due to the global COVID pandemic, the Albatross Hostel closed down in August 2023. My memories here will last forever.
Where to Eat in Kaikoura
Even though I'm on a backpacking budget and am mostly eating from the free food shelf and what I pick up at the local New World grocery store (as per my guide to eating while traveling!), I have indulged myself and popped out for the occasional meal with friends. Here are my picks for the best eats in town:
- The Strawberry Tree - the local town pub
- Craypot Cafe - for comfort food dining; great for a casual lunch!
- Coopers Catch - the best seafood in town; also has the best veg burger
- Pier Hotel - one of the few places to regularly serve crayfish, the Kaikoura specialty
- Mama Tuti's - delicious Indonesian food; get anything with tofu
- Hislop's Cafe - wholesome, organic bites
Things to Do in Kaikoura
I loved Kaikoura so much due to the small town charm, the feeling that I belong, the pure beauty that surrounds this little village and the feeling of home I didn't have for a few months while traveling out of a backpack. Here's my suggestions for what to do around town:
Peninsula Walkway
One of my favourite things to do in town (and what I recommend to everyone who comes through the hostel) is to head out to the coast to walk the Peninsula Walkway, a stunning hike along the cliff-tops with views of the seals far below. From town, head along the coastal road to the Seal Colony parking lot where you can hang out with the seals. From there, the Peninsula Walkway wanders along the grassy cliff-tops with views of white cliffs and seals lounging all around; my mouth literally fell open at the beauty. Continue to the South Bay Reserve then finish your loop back to town.
Dolphin Encounter
Perhaps the most popular draw to Kaikoura along with whale-watching, the dolphin encounter is a surreal experience. This was by far one of the most incredible things I did during my entire time in New Zealand. Swimming with these creatures in their native environment is a special and moving opportunity. Tours depart daily with up to 16 swimmers per vessel at 5:30am, 8:30am and 12:30pm.
Innovative Waste Centre
Before you question why I'm including a dump in my "must do in Kaikoura" post, hear me out. Let me tell you about the Innovative Waste Centre, aka the Dump which is up the stairs behind the Albatross Hostel. I stop in here every week because you can find some bangin' clothes for $1. That's crazy and SO good for the backpacking budget. As we move into the cooler weather season, I've picked up sweaters, jackets, tops and boots and even little jewelry trinkets. Seriously, you'll thank me for this recommendation!
Seal Colony
At the end of the coastal road, you'll find the Seal Colony. After the 2016 earthquake in Kaikoura, the sea bed and landscape completely changed and now stunning rock pools stretch out around the coast on which hundreds of seals hang out. You are welcome to clamber the rocks and visit them, but please maintain a respectful distance.
South Bay
At the end of the Peninsula Walkway, on the southern side of the peninsula on which Kaikoura lies, is the beautiful South Bay Beach, a protected cove popular with the dolphins that play around the waters of Kaikoura. It's a great place to swim, stand-up paddle board and spot the friendly dolphins of the bay.
Mangamaunu
Kaikoura is very popular with surfers thanks to the excellent breaks out at some of the local beaches surrounding Mangamaunu. It's also a wonderful spot to watch sunrise or the sunset lighting up the clouds over the ocean with a picnic and there's plenty of paua shells to be found!
Kaikoura Beach
The town sits on the coastline with a pebbled beach running all the way along it. Hang out here for the sunrise (New Zealand is the first place in the world to see the sun come up each day!), swimming, sunbathing and mountain spotting.
Kaikoura Lookout
Along Scarborough Road, just past the Innovative Waste Centre, you'll find the tiny little Kaikoura Lookout perched on a water tank. This spot offers the perfect view overlooking town; you'll see the ocean on both sides of the peninsula and the incredible Kaikoura Ranges framing the shot. Come here for a dreamy sunset and don't forget your camera!
Whale Watching with Air Kaikoura
Air Kaikoura operates 40 minute flights in tiny little planes that zip around the Kaikoura coastline to watch whales. This is a fantastic way to view these animals in their native environment especially since from above you can actually view the entire whale (in comparison to the boat where you may only get to see the tail as they dive!). The flight was an incredible experience, from the moment we took off the tiny runway with just three of us aboard to the time we got to spend watching a sperm whale oxygenate before diving deep down to feed to flying over the Kaikoura peninsula in pure sunshine.
Stargazing
Kaikoura, being a tiny town of just 2150, emits very little light pollution, meaning the night sky here is spectacular. Best viewed over the ocean, you can see hundreds of twinkling stars and constellations.
Once a year, Halley’s Comet spawns the Eta Aquarids meteor shower. It was a surreal experience to stand under the dark sky at 4 in the morning (that’s me on the right) as shooting stars fell around us, waves crashing on the beach just a few feet away.
Photo by Katie of Albatross Backpackers
Photo by Salomé Weber of Framing Landscapes
Mount Fyffe Summit Hike
The trail up to Mount Fyffe Summit is a beautiful and challenging track 11km inland from the Kaikoura coast. A long and steep route will provide you with panoramic views of the Kaikoura Ranges on one side and the peninsula of Kaikoura stretching out into the ocean on the other. It's one of those special places where the snow-capped mountains dive headfirst into the ocean.
You can camp overnight in the Mount Fyffe hut, about 2/3 of the way up the trail. Reservations are not required; it is first-come, first-served. It's one of the prettiest hikes I've done on the South Island, particularly thanks to the fall colours and the snow at the summit that comes with this time of year!
Ohau Point Lookout
Another fantastic seal-spotting place is Ohau, approximately 1/2 hour north of Kaikoura on Highway 1. Heading in from Picton? This is a perfect place to stop and enjoy hundreds of these floppy creatures.
Hi! I’m Jana, a Dutch-German-British-Canadian with a dream of seeing every country in the world. I am a storyteller, photographer and adventurer passionate about documenting and sharing my travels.
