Singapore is a city-state located on an island at the southern tip of mainland Malaysia. It's one of the world's safest countries, with a strict set of laws governing every day life. In return, Singaporeans enjoy a well-developed economy (with the world's highest GDP per capita), tax haven and some of the world's best education, healthcare and housing. The Singaporean passport consistently ranks as the best in the world.
One thing that we definitely noticed throughout our trip was that there doesn't seem to be one consistent Singaporean identity; rather, the city-state is built on the immigrants (and slaves) who arrived here from around the world throughout history. Records go back as far as 1299 when the Kingdom of Singapura was established as a trading port by Prince Sang Nila Utama. There were Portuguese in the 1600s, followed by the Dutch, although after this time there was not much left of the original settlements.
From then, people usually refer to Singapore's "contemporary" era as beginning in 1819 when Stamford Raffles arrived, colonized the island and set up a Dutch East Indies branch, bringing Singapore under British control. It was briefly Japanese during World War II, self-governing shortly thereafter and then, for a short while, part of the federation of Malaysia. It has been independent since 1965. This tumultuous history can be seen today with countless neighbourhoods reflecting many of the ethnic groups that have emigrated here.
I have to be completely honest - as I am with all my blog posts - and say that we didn't really love Singapore that much. There were some brilliant elements that we really enjoyed and I am excited to share them with you below. But I think we went into this trip expecting it to be one of the best cities we've ever visited and unfortunately it seems that Singapore's reputation precedes itself. On paper, it's been designed as a perfect city, but it's lacking something. I like to describe places I visit in terms of how much "magic" they have; Singapore had hardly any. It felt almost sterile in its safe, controlled perfection.
We read lots of Reddit threads and other blog posts that echo our feelings so perhaps we're not alone in this, but we'd also read many other pieces of people who are absolutely obsessed with Singapore and think it's one of the greatest places they've ever been to. I often struggle with writing about a place I didn't like because I don't want to offend people who live there or people who visit and love it. But at the same time, I believe it is only fair to be honest in recounting my experiences so that anyone reading this can go into their own trip with an open mind.
We spent a week in Singapore in mid-February as our choice for this year's annual "three-day bender", the name we have given to the three days of 13, 14 and 15 February. The 13 is my birthday, of course the 14 is Valentine's and the 15 is my partner's birthday, so we basically just celebrate for three days in a row and then move on for the year; it's fun! On top of that, this year I turned the big 3-0 and wanted an extra special place to ring in the start of my fourth decade. And in case that all wasn't enough, I have spent every birthday in a new country for the last decade (Singapore marks the tenth!) and that's a tradition I hope to keep up forever.
→ Check out my blog post about turning 30!
We're currently driving our van (Susy) around "the lap" of Australia and so traveled from Brisbane to Singapore for this one-week adventure.
While there are countless neighbourhoods and pockets of Singapore to explore, all of which would take much longer than a week to explore and understand, here is everything we got up to which would make for an excellent itinerary for any visitor:
Every single spot (and more) that I mention in all my blog posts about Singapore can be found in my Singapore | First Timer Map!
This is a digital map which opens straight in your Google Maps featuring more than 40 of my favourite restaurants, shops, photo spots, museums and more in Singapore, designed for your first visit to the country with all the best highlights and attractions.
Each pin includes exact locations, images, detailed information and a link to my relevant blog post to read more.
Below is some useful information for preparing for your trip to Singapore. In all cases, please be sure to check with the relevant local authorities for the latest and accurate information.
Language: Singapore has four official languages: English, Malay, Mandarin and Tamil. English is the most common language and spoken everywhere, including all public services. Singapore also has a unique slang known as "Singlish" which combines English with elements of Malay, Cantonese, Hokkien, Mandarin, Teochew, and Tamil languages!
Currency: The currency used in Singapore is the Singaporean dollar, denoted as $ SGD. I use a Wise account when I travel which allows me to have a single, free account with multiple currencies. I only have to pay once to convert my money in the app and then I can pay in $ SGD! Singapore is known as being one of the most expensive countries in the world.
→ Check the latest currency conversion between $ SGD and your local currency.
Data/WiFi: Before you arrive, I recommend purchasing an eSim on your phone so that you can access data the moment you land. eSims are much more convenient as it means you don't have to put a separate physical Sim into your phone. Singapore has four main telecommunications providers: Singtel, StarHub, M1 and SIMBA. AirAlo offers great deals for eSims of various data sizes and time lengths with StarHub.
→ Load an international eSim on your phone with AirAlo.
There is often WiFi at public places such as malls and transport hubs provided by Wireless@SG, an initiative launched in 2006.
Visa: The majority of passport holders do not need a visa to enter Singapore however there are a handful that do; check if you need a visa for Singapore. Regardless of visa, every single person entering Singapore (including residents) must fill out an SG Arrival Card in the 72 hours before arriving.
Time of year to visit: Singapore is almost always warm and muggy sitting at 26°C-30°C all year-round with at least 80% humidity. The rainy season is technically from September to February, so for your best chance at clear skies, plan to visit from March to August. However, rain and blue skies go hand-in-hand all year round.
Length of stay: We spent a week in Singapore. We felt that this was the perfect amount of time to do all the main tourist attractions without having to rush and feel overwhelmed. There are of course enough neighbourhoods to explore, restaurants to try and museums to visit that could keep you going for many more weeks!
By flight: The main way to reach Singapore is by flying into Changi International Airport. It is the only airport in Singapore, located on the east side of the island. We flew with Singapore Airlines from Brisbane; although a number of airlines fly into Singapore, I can really recommend flying with Singapore Airlines if you get the opportunity to as they are a fantastic airline.
For the best views of Singapore, the best side of the airplane to sit on when flying into Changi is usually the left side.
From Changi Airport, you can take a Grab (Asia's version of Uber) for a direct ride into the city in about 20-30 minutes, depending on traffic. Alternatively, there is a metro station at the airport; take the MRT to Tanah Merah and then transfer onto the East West Line.
By train: Singapore is connected to Malaysia by train with KTMB so you can also arrive overland if traveling through Asia. There is also a luxury Belmond train route that travels through Malaysia to Singapore, if bougie train travel is your thing (it's definitely on my list to try!).
By bus: You can arrive in Singapore from various cities in Malaysia by bus, which you can book using BusOnlineTicket.
By boat: As an island nation, it is also possible to travel to Singapore by boat. You can take a ferry to and from Singapore to many different destinations in Malaysia and Indonesia. It is also a popular stop on many cruise lines including Royal Caribbean, Carnival, Celebrity Cruises and Disney Cruise Line.
Flying into Singapore
The Jewel Vortex at Changi Airport
According to the Encyclopedia Britannica, Singapore is the 21st smallest country in the world (not including territories), measuring less than 750km². That doesn't make it a breeze to visit though! With more than six million inhabitants, this densely-packed city-state can still take a few hours to cross in either direction.
Within specific neighbourhoods, the best way to get around is on foot so you can explore all the little streets. There are loads of different walking tours in available to visit certain areas of Singapore; these are great ways to get insights from a local of the history and learn a bit more about the city.
To get between neighbourhoods and out to further destinations, there are a few ways to get around Singapore:
By car: If you have your own car, you can easily drive around Singapore. We heard it was very difficult and expensive to own a car in Singapore!
By Grab: Grab is essentially Asia's form of Uber and connects you with a local driver via the Grab App. It's a very popular and convenient way of getting around the city. I really recommend paying a few dollars extra for the "premium" cars, they're so much nicer than the basic cars and worth the few extra bucks.
By metro: The metro was our preferred method of getting around. You can simply tap on and off the metro in Singapore with your credit card making it super easy to access.
By bus: There is an extensive bus route around Singapore complementing the metro making public transport a super easy option when visiting.
→ Check out the routes for buses in Singapore.
By bike: Getting around by bike is very common in Singapore. There are loads of bike rental companies around and it's a fun way to get around quickly; SG Bike is a popular bike-sharing app. Helmets are mandatory by law.
Gardens By The Bay Metro Station
Driving through Singapore
Singapore is a bustling metropolis and so there are countless places to stay across multiple neighbourhoods. We chose to stay in Chinatown because of its central proximity to everything we wanted to see as well as being full of great shopping, dining and exploring options on our doorsteps.
We spent our first night at the Claude, an affordable boutique hotel in Chinatown. The rooms are very compact but they've really maximized their use of space and we were very comfortable.
→ Book your stay at the Claude.
Most of our time (six nights) were at the Mondrian Duxton in Chinatown which we absolutely loved. It was exactly the kind of quiet luxury we were looking for with understated details, a beautiful rooftop infinity pool, gorgeous city views from our bedroom, comfortable facilities and great staff. Highly recommend!
→ Book your stay at the Mondrian Duxton.
→ Check out other places to stay to suit your budget and accommodation type.
You might be wondering why I didn't recommend one of the most famous hotels in the city to stay at, the Marina Bay Sands.
Truthfully, we actually originally did book two nights here for my 30th birthday because we thought it'd be a real treat for such a milestone. However, from the moment we arrived, we were hugely disappointed. At the shocking price point per night (which we don't mind paying if you get something spectacular for it), the service is really poor, at points feeling like they hadn't received proper training at all. The ~2,500 rooms look out over the main lobby area which makes you feel like you're in some gigantic mall (which you are). The whole thing is a massive tourist factory, full of tack and zero charm. The views from the rooms are sold as "city view" or "garden view" when in reality, the lower floors (already thousands per night) have hardly any view. The whole thing felt cheap and disappointing.
The icing on the cake? The entire Marina Bay Sands enterprise is owned by a Las Vegas billionaire who made over USD $6 billion last year. To us, it was the pinnacle of atrocious overconsumption.
So no, I can't recommend!
With four official languages (English, Malay, Mandarin and Tamil), you can expect the food to reflect that and more. Immigrants move to Singapore from all corners of the globe, bringing their traditional foods with them. You can dine out at all price points, from the world-famous Hawker Centres serving up cafeteria-style food to world-class Michelin-star restaurants, Singapore seems to have it all.
Naturally, with just a week in the city, there was no way we could try it all. You couldn't even with an entire lifetime to spend. But we like to think we sampled a great variety of what Singapore has to offer so I wrote an entire separate blog post with all my recommendations.
Singapore is a densely-packed, modern metropolis with countless neighbourhoods to explore. Even though geographically quite small, you could spend a lifetime exploring the complex layers that make up this city. It can feel overwhelming to start planning a trip, especially for your first visit, so here is everything we did in our week in Singapore to get you started:
Explore Chinatown
We based ourselves in Chinatown during our week in Singapore (check out my two recommendations above) and really enjoyed this neighbourhood. Singapore's Chinatown is considered the historic heart of the city as one of the oldest areas of the country. Dating back as early as 1822 when Stamford Raffles allocated this part of town for Chinese immigrants, it started out as a slum and underwent extensive developments in the 1980s to make it the fascinating neighbourhood it is today.
→ Learn more about the history of Singapore's Chinatown.
Spend time perusing the open-air markets, trying delicious food (check out my Singapore food guide!) and absorbing the historic architecture. You can visit the famous Buddha Tooth Relic Temple with exhibits on Buddhist art and history. Housed inside is one of Buddha's teeth, protected by more than 320kg of gold. It's free to visit and fantastic for photography, especially at dusk as the lights come on.
See the Singapore skyline
The metropolis of Singapore is most famous for its skyline, a bustling economic powerhouse of a city that is characterized by its many skyscrapers. One of the best places to take this all in is from the harbour in front of the Marina Bay Sands. I can especially recommend this at night - not only is it not as hot but all the city lights come on somehow making the city look even more incredible. Be sure to walk all the way along the harbour to spot the Helix Bridge all lit up.
Visit Gardens By The Bay
The Gardens By The Bay are one of the most iconic landmarks of Singapore, a city-state located on an island at the southern tip of mainland Malaysia. Set just behind the Marina Bay Sands on reclaimed land, the supertrees and other impressive natural wonders are a must-do for any visitor to Singapore.
Planning a visit to Gardens By The Bay can be overwhelming - it's spread over more than 250 acres and there is truly a lot to see! We visited on two separate occasions during our week in Singapore and honestly could have spent even more time there.
Because there is so much to know about how to visit, I wrote a separate blog post with all the details and all my favourite photo spots that you shouldn't miss when visiting Gardens By The Bay:
Spot the green buildings
One thing we really appreciated about Singapore is their rule that every new build has to replace 100% of the greenery they displace with construction. Therefore, you'll spot many buildings with trees growing out of different storeys and on their roofs.
Visit the Merlion
The Merlion is one of the most famous symbols of Singapore, a large white statue in the harbour with the top of a lion and the bottom of a fish. It symbolizes two things: Singapore's origins as a fishing village in combination with the original name of the city, Singapura, which means "the lion city" in Sanskrit. The statue was built in 1972 and moved from its original location at the mouth of the Singapore River to the current location overlooking Marina Bay in 1997.
Wander through the Singapore Botanic Gardens
Situated north of the downtown core, a visit to the Singapore Botanic Gardens is a nice escape into nature and mostly free to explore. We took the metro straight here with the station just across the road from the entrance. It's quite a large gardens, stretching across 82 hectares, so we didn't see everything there was.
We did enjoy walking through the National Orchid Garden (even though we felt it was very expensive for foreigners) featuring over 1,500 species of orchids including many hybrids created and named after important visitors to the country.
Take in the view from LeVeL33 Restaurant
I wrote about this spot in my Singapore Food Guide but it does deserve its own mention in this blog post because in my opinion, it has the best view in Singapore.
Make sure you book a 5-8pm slot out on the terrace for the best view. If you time it right, you'll get golden hour, the 7:45pm free light show at Gardens By The Bay and the 8pm water show at the Marina Bay Sands Shoppes! You must book in advance and there is a minimum spend depending where you sit.
Explore Joo Chiat
Joo Chiat is a colourful and fun neighbourhood and ended up being one of our favourite places to explore. Grab breakfast at Common Man, wander the vintage shops, try a bom from Boms & Buns, have a drink (and a cup of miso soup!) at Cafe Wabi Sabi and take photos at the colourful Peranakan Houses dating back to the 1920s.
Explore Little India
One of Singapore's liveliest neighbourhoods is Little India - as we were walking around I described it as microdosing India. It's loud, bustling, full of the smells of freshly cooked curries and bursting with stalls selling just about everything you can imagine. Beautiful temples are dotted in between - my favourite of which was the Sri Veeramakaliamman Temple - and clouds of incense waft out. It's an experience simply to wander the streets.
Be sure to stop in at the Mustafa Centre, a huge department store where they seem to sell literally everything.
Sri Veeramakaliamman Temple
The Mustafa Centre
Which seems to sell everything!
Explore Kampong Glam
Kampong Glam was one of our favourite neighbourhoods during our Singapore trip. Located next to the Raffles Hospital, these streets are full of Middle Eastern and North African culture. Think restaurants with lots of mezze on offer, food markets, a beautiful mosque at the heart of it and colourful murals on the walls.
Make sure to stop by Haji Lane and visit the famous photo booths! Photo booths can be found all over the city but Haji Lane is where they are truly at. It felt like almost every other shop in the street was a photo store where you can walk in and take photobooth photos with nearly every theme imaginable. Our favourites had to be the laundromat and the hotel. So fun!
Haji Lane
Have high tea at Raffles
Raffles is the most expensive hotel in Singapore, designed in old colonial style with teak and marble throughout. It opened its doors in 1887 by four Armenian brothers and has since grown to become an icon of Singapore.
We did not stay as guests but did take part in a high tea in their lobby one afternoon. The food and tea was outstanding and we stuffed ourselves!
Learn Singapore's history at the National Museum
Visiting Singapore's National Museum was a highlight of our trip as I really appreciated how much of a light it shone on the immigrants (and slaves) who truly built Singapore.
Throughout its history, constantly being colonized and with immigrants streaming in, Singapore has struggled with its identity, something we definitely felt on this trip. This museum was so worth it to learn about that.
Photograph Singapore's most colourful building
You might be surprised to find out that Singapore's most colourful and photogenic buildings is actually an old police station! The Old Hill Street Police Station is today one of the country's most photographed spots with its brightly-coloured shutters adorning the 927 windows of the 1924 building.
Walk through Fort Canning
We loved wandering through Fort Canning, the important hill at the heart of Singapore. I can especially recommend a visit to the Heritage Gallery which is free to visit. It tells the history of Fort Canning, including its location as the city's first botanic garden, the biodiversity of which is documented in William Farquhar’s gorgeous 477-piece collection.
See the Jewel Vortex at Changi Airport
There are seven malls at Changi Airport across three terminals as well as the crowning (literally) Jewel, home to the famous vortex waterfall. We had 12 hours at the airport, considered a destination in itself, and so we walked every single floor of the Jewel. An experience to say the least! Our fav moments? The vegetarian laksa at Greendot and riding the train back and forth between T2 and T3 for the waterfall views.
→ Check out my reel about riding the train at the Jewel!
If you want, you can also pay extra for Jewel attractions such as the nets on the top floor, a cloud forest, a viewpoint to the Vortex and more. There are also hundreds of restaurants and shops to pass your time in.
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Hi! I’m Jana, a Dutch-German-British-Canadian with a dream of seeing every country in the world. I am a storyteller, photographer and adventurer passionate about documenting and sharing my travels.
