Welcome to San Marino, the world's oldest republic and the fifth-smallest country in the world. This little microstate is surrounded entirely by Italy, located near the east coast, about half an hour's drive from nearby Rimini on the Italian coast.
I didn't really have any expectations for my visit to San Marino - my 67th country - but was honestly blown away. There is so much to discover and explore in this beautiful historic place. San Marino became independent from the Roman Empire in 301, so it's been around for a really, really long time! It's played many roles throughout its long history, including rejecting the Papal State in 1291, and it also protected up to 100,000 Italian refugees during the Second World War, which is considerable given that it only has about 30,000 citizens and they reckon less than half of that during the wartime.
All that to say, I really recommend a visit to San Marino while you're in Italy. You can visit it on a day trip from Rimini or drive through if you have a car, but in my opinion at least a night or two is warranted to really get to explore San Marino to its full extent.
San Marino is tiny - it's the fifth smallest country in the world - so you won't find an airport or a train station here. The only way to get to San Marino is either by car or by bus.
By bus: I traveled by Flixbus overnight from Perugia where I had been staying to Rimini, which is the closest city in Italy. From Rimini, the public bus departs regularly from the bus station at Arco di Augusto. This is the exact spot on Google Maps to get the bus to San Marino. At the time of writing, tickets from Rimini to San Marino were €6 one-way. The bus took about 45 minutes to the last stop at the Piazzale della Stazione in central San Marino.
→ Find the latest timetable and buy tickets online in advance on the Bonelli Bus website.
By car: Of course, if you have your own wheels to travel through Italy, you can also drive into San Marino yourself up the winding hilly roads. Parking is available right in the centre of the city at P2 or P7.
There aren't any hostels in San Marino, and as it's quite a tiny place, there are just a handful of hotels to choose from.
I spent three nights at the Hotel Cesare, which was in the perfect location right in the heart of the old town. I was in a very basic single room which was a bit noisy as it looked right over the street and the walls are thin, but it was comfortable and clean. The mattress was also quite hard but the service was really lovely and I genuinely enjoyed my stay. The upstairs rooms I heard were quite nice, with views overlooking the whole country.
I was actually so impressed by all the meals I had in San Marino. Of course, it's very similar to Italian food, given that San Marino is fully surrounded by Italy and therefore heavily influenced.
Strapizzati
They sell delicious pizza by the slice for €1-2... seriously can't beat that for a pick-me-up. And it's thick and warm and yummy.
Guaita Food, Drink & Fun
We had a takeout pasta here one night and it was absolutely mouthwatering and another morning we came for a coffee and the owner made us the most delicious mango banana smoothies for a late breakfast.
Ristorante Pizzeria Smaller
Seriously might have had one of the best pasta dishes of my life here.
La Cremeria del Titano
The BEST passionfruit gelato I've probably ever had. It still had the seeds in it... seriously yummy.
Ristorante Il Beccafico
Truffle tagliatelli, truffle tortellacci and the best roast potatoes of my life, plus a view of the sunset over the mountains (below). Mouthwatering. Need I say more?
Gelateria L'Alchimista
A little hole-in-the-wall gelato place with suprisingly yummy flavours, especially the mango!
Most of the things to see are concentrated in the capital, also called San Marino, high up on Monte Titano where the palaces, museums and beautiful old buildings are located. And since it's the fifth-smallest country in the world, it's all walkable.
Many people opt to visit San Marino on a day trip, such as from nearby Rimini, but I can really recommend at least a night or two to be able to properly wander the country, see it without rushing and especially enjoy it after all the day-trippers have gone home and you can have a quiet golden hour and evening.
I spent three nights in San Marino; here is everything I saw:
Take in the view from the steps of Capella Nuova
I didn't go inside this church, but walked up and down the steps next to it a number of times and it's a really cute little view over the old town.
Go shopping on Contrada Santa Croce
One of many cute little shopping streets, with a nice view overlooking western San Marino.
Visit the Public Palace of the Republic of San Marino
Built in the late 1800s, this is the main building in San Marino and is the home of San Marino's government. The inside was closed when I visited due to an annual important political event, but I still spotted the guards in their beautiful dark green and red uniforms.
Ride the cable car
Running every 15 minutes, this cable car at the end of the old town takes a few minutes ride down to Borgo Maggiore.
Cava dei Balestrieri
Wander along Via Eugippo to Piazzetta del Titano
Adorable old streets and a wonderful little square where you can find the best gelato in San Marino and also great coffee at the Caffe Titano. The Museo di Stato di San Marino is also here.
Spot the Monument to Girolamo Gozi
This monument was built in 1895 commemorating Girolamo Gozi, who was Captains Regent of San Marino five times in the 18th century, a key player in the independence of the country, especially against the occupation of Cardinal Giulio Alberoni.
Visit the Three Towers of San Marino
The Three Towers of San Marino are three towers atop Mount Titano, which is the highest point of San Marino in the city of San Marino. They are called Guaita, Cesta and Montale, representing the defence of freedom, a core value of San Marino.
You can visit two of the three towers with the museum pass which, at the time of writing, was €9 per person and for €2 extra you can visit four additional museums in the city. I highly recommend paying to enter the towers as you can get the best views in the entire country, and learn a bit about the history of defending San Marino.
Check out San Marino's museums
For €11 per person, you can visit seven museums across San Marino. You can buy the Museum Pass at any of the seven museums listed below. These museums are:
- First Tower - Cesta Tower, with the Museum of Ancient Weapons (above)
- Second Tower - Guaita Tower (above)
- Palazzo Pubblico (above)
- Museo di Stato - sharing the history of San Marino
- Pinacoteca San Francesco - art work of the Church of San Francesco built into the city walls (pictured)
- National Gallery - a small collection of modern and contemporary art important to San Marino
- Stamp and Coin Museum - from the 19th century to modern day
Get your passport stamped
Since San Marino is not part of the EU, for €5 you can purchase an official passport stamp of the Republic at the tourist information centre!
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