I was so thrilled to have an entire week to spend in Rome this summer. Rome is Italy's gorgeous capital city, steeped in history and absolutely bursting with things to do, home to some of the most iconic landmarks arguably in the entire country.
I spent most of my week within the city, wandering thousand of steps every day trying to cover as much as I could of what I felt was a bit of an overwhelming place, with so much to see.
However, one of my days, I made a day trip out to nearby Tivoli to explore the famous villas, two of which - Villa Adriana and Villa d'Este - are UNESCO World Heritage sites!
Check out the reel I made documenting my day in Tivoli.
I traveled to Tivoli from Rome by public transport, so have written out a guide below how to visit all three villas using public transport and what to see at each:
How to Get to Villa Adriana / Hadrian's Villa from Rome by Public Transport
Villa Adriana - known as Hadrian's Villa in English - is the closest to Rome and so it made sense to start my day there. It's perhaps the most famous Villa in Tivoli, being a UNESCO listed site.
Take the metro to Ponte Mammolo. I was staying with a five-minute walk of a metro station, but find out however you need to get to Ponte Mammolo from your area. The metro cost me €1.50 for a 100-minute single ticket plus €0.50 for a reusable metro card.
At Ponte Mammolo station, buy a ticket to Villa Adriana from the ticket office on the main floor. Cotral buses run every 15 minutes on the quarter-hour from Ponte Mammolo to Tivolo, stopping near Villa Adriana on the way. The one-way bus ticket from Ponte Mammolo to Villa Adriana cost me €2.20.
Let the bus driver know you want to get off at Villa Adriana; the bus stop is 1.2km from the ticket office and there is a sign showing you which way to walk. This is the exact location of the Villa Adriana bus stop on Google Maps.
Walk the 1.2km up the road towards Villa Adriana. The ticket office is the first thing you'll arrive at.
Visiting Villa Adriana / Hadrian's Villa
You don't need to prebook tickets in advance (but you can, if you like). You can buy them on site at the ticket office. At the time of writing, it was €12 for an adult (with various discounts available). When you buy your ticket, you'll get a printed map of the whole villa pointing out key areas of interest that you might want to visit, and three different walking routes depending on how long you want to visit for.
I spent about an hour and a half at Villa Adriana; I've done my best to remember which spot I photographed below so you can have an idea of what there is to see. Of course, the highlight is the Canopo e Sarapeo / Canopus and Serapeum, which is perhaps the best known view in the whole site.
Villa Adriana was built between 118 and 138 AD by the Emperor Hadrian near Tivoli, across more than 120 acres. The ruins include residential buildings, baths, important buildings and gardens. Given the complexity of the site and the sheer vastness and scale of how much there was going on here, it's been a critical subject of research for many years. It's been a UNESCO site since 1999.
How to Get to Villa d'Este from Villa Adriana by Public Transport
Villa d'Este is further away from Rome, more in the town of Tivoli itself. It is also a UNESCO listed site.
From the ticket office at Villa Adriana, a small CAT bus runs fairly regularly directly to Villa d'Este. You can find the bus times pinned up at the ticket office - check when you arrive at Villa Adriana and time your visit accordingly. This little bus cost me €1.50.
The driver will announce when it's the Villa d'Este stop - my entire bus got off here, so they expect it! - and then it's just a few minutes walk back down the hill to the entrance of Villa d'Este.
Visiting Villa d'Este
You don't need to prebook tickets in advance (but you can, if you like). You can buy them on site at the ticket office. At the time of writing, it was €15 for an adult (with various discounts available), which I did think was quite expensive. When you buy your ticket, you'll get a printed map of the villa pointing out key areas of interest that you might want to visit. The best part to visit at Villa d'Este is the gardens - while the inside features some stunning frescoes, it's the gardens that really draw the crowds.
I spent about an hour at Villa d'Este, mostly in the gardens after walking through the many halls of frescoes.
Villa d'Este was built starting from 1560 by Cardinal Ippolito Il d'Este who wanted to create a garden on the slopes of Valle gaudente. The Villa d'Este was designed by Pirro Ligorio and built by Alberto Galvani. The Villa went through various stages of additions and decline, sometimes having new things added on and times where it was left abandoned. It was fully restored and reopened to the public in the 1920s. It has been a UNESCO site since 2001 because of its Italian gardens.
How to Get to Villa Gregoriana from Villa d'Este
Villa Gregoriana is just a 15-minute walk from Villa d'Este through the cute little town of Tivoli. So it's totally easy to visit both! And stop for a gelato on the way at the delightful Gelateria Mariannina - I can highly recommend the hazelnut and pistacchio.
Visiting Villa Gregoriana
You don't need to prebook tickets in advance (but you can, if you like). You can buy them on site at the ticket office. At the time of writing, it was €10 for an adult (with various discounts available). When you buy your ticket, they'll share a QR code which gives you a map of the gardens and some key spots that you won't want to miss as you walk through.
Be prepared to do some walking - there are lots of stairs and they are a bit slippery in places. I spent about an hour at Villa Gregoriana which is all outdoors.
Villa Gregoriana isn't so much a villa anymore. It is now a set of paths through ancient ruins, caves and waterfalls. It is really mesmerizing and must have been surreal in its heyday - see the last photo for what it looked like.
In 1832, Pope Gregory XVI promoted a grandiose work of hydraulic engineering to contain the continuous flooding of the Aniene, channeling its waters into a double tunnel dug into Mount Catillo and then artificially swelling them, thus creating the 120-metre drop of the new Cascata Grande, the second in Italy after the Marmore. Once the work was completed, the Pope created the Park that bears his name and which for over a century was a destination for artists, writers and men of culture who told the world about its beauty.
How to Get to Rome from Tivoli
From Villa Gregoriana, I walked about 15 minutes down to Tivoli Station where I bought a €2.60 one-way train ticket to Rome Termini which was about an hour's journey west. Be sure to check the train timetable in advance; the train I caught was the last one for five hours!
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Hi! I’m Jana, a Dutch-German-British-Canadian with a dream of seeing every country in the world. I am a storyteller, photographer and adventurer passionate about documenting and sharing my travels.